VARANASI, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: Ghats of Ganga

Ghats of Ganga are perhaps the holiest spots of Varanasi, are full of pilgrims who flock to the place to take a dip in the holy Ganges, which is believed to absolve one from all sins. There are number of temples on the bank of the Ganga river in Varanasi. It is believed that people are cleansed physically, mentally and spiritually at Ganga Ghats. It is at the Ganga Ghats where we see life and death together. For thousands of years people have been thronging these Ghats to offer their morning prayers to the rising sun. Varanasi has at least 84 ghats. Some of the prominent and popular Ghats are the Dasaswamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Panchganga Ghat, Harischandra Ghat, Kabir Ghat and Assi Ghat. The Ganga Ghats of Varanasi that complement the concept of divinity

In Hindu traditions, cremation is one of the rites of passage and the Ghats of Varanasi are considered one of the auspicious locations for this ritual. At the time of the cremation or "last rites," a "Puja" (prayer) is performed. Hymns and mantras are recited during cremation to mark the ritual. The Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are dedicated to the cremation ritual. Ganges Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat is very popular. A group of priests daily perform in the evening at this ghat "Agni Pooja" (Worship to Fire) wherein a dedication is made to Lord Shiva, River Ganges, Surya (Sun), Agni (Fire), and the whole universe.

Brief History

Varanasi one of the ancient cities and seat of learning in India is located on the left bank of the most sacred river Ganga. Varuna and Assi are the two streams bounding it from north and south. The city seems to have acquired its name from the combination of the names of these two streams and the district has been named after it. In medieval times, this name was corrupted to Banaras and it remained as such till May 1956, when it was changed to Varanasi. Being a great religious centre of Hindus, it is visited by millions of people every year and so is the reason that it finds a mention in several ancient sacred texts like Purans, Mahabharat and Ramayana. 

Besides Hinduism, Buddha and Jain dharma have also flourished on this sacred place. Sarnath, hardly 12 kms, from the city is the place where Lord Buddha preached his first sermon revealing the eight fold path that leads to the attainment of inner piece enlightenment and ultimate Nirvana. The district was originally a part of Kashi kingdom Pururavas Alia, the grandson of Manu, is said to be the founder of the earliest dynasty that ruled over this district. It acquired the ancient name Kashi, after the name of the seventh king of this dynasty, the Kasha. A few generations later there ruled a king named Dhanvantari who has been identified in Yayu Puran as the founder of Ayurveda, the indigenous system of medical treatment (the Pancham Veda).

According to Hindu mythology, in Satyug, the king Satya Harish Chandra with his wife sold himself to Dom Raja at Kashi, to pay the Dhakshina to Rajarshi Vishwamitra . In Dwaper,in Mahabharat, it is stated the Bhisma Pitamah took forcibly the three daughters of Kashi Naresh to wed their step brothers, but one of them known as Shikhandi denied and after sometimes she became the cause of death of Bhisma Pitamah during Mahabharat war.

At the end of Maunas kingdom the Banaras kingdom came into power, which was one of the sixteen Mahajanpadas of Bharatvarsha. Before the birth of Lord Buddha, nearly about in 6th century B.C. its capital was Varanasi, which is situated between Varuna and Assi. In the reign of Ajatshatru, it was merged with Magadh empire. Kashi Naresh participated in Mahabharat war. Varanasi city is the holy and oldest city among the ancient towns of world. It has been a centre of learning since long time. Its name is found in Puana, Mahabharata and Ramayana. It is a sacred place of Hindu as well as of Bouddh and Jain.

Kashi kingdom was however dominated by Barhadratha dynasty of Magadh during the century preceding the war but Post-Mahabhartha period saw the rise of Brahmdatta dynasty. About hundred kings of this generation are said to have had their supremacy over this region. Some of these rulers have amassed so much of power that they aspired to become Chakravorty Emperor. King Manoja of Kashi brought the kingdom of Kaushala, Anga and Magadh in his possession and annexed their territories to his empire. In Jain scriptures have described the greatness of Ashva Sena, a king, of Kashi whom they recognized as the father of Tirthankara Parshwa. Subsequently, in the ninth century BC, the Brahmadatta dynasty was subdued by the Nagas. 

Gradually, during the eighth and seventh centuries BC, the kingdom of Kashi had completely lost its vigour and power and consequently it was tossed between Kaushala and Magadh in this duration. However, in the midst of such a situation, Varanasi attained a new importance in the cultural history of India when Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon after achieving enlightenment at Gaya. It was the place where is the first Sangha of sixty monks was founded who were later on sent in different direction for propagation of Buddha Dharma.

Bimbhsara of Magadh conquered Kaushala at about the third quarter of Sixth century BC but it came into more prominence at the time of the great emperor Ashoka the third in this line. In Sarnath, Ashoka built a hundred feet high Dharma Rajjika Stupa, probably on the spot where Buddha preached his first sermon. The famous Dharma Chakra pillar surmounted by a lion capital of great beauty was also created by him. This emblem has now been adopted by the government of India as the national emblem. 

Later on Kushans, Nagas Nand, Vansha and Mauryas also held their supremacy over this region before the advent of Gupta Empire which ruled over this region nearly two centuries (320-540 AD). It was the Gupta period, when this region was most prosperous and the glory of the state spread far and wide and innumerable images depicting a glimpse of fine art and sculpture were made during these days. In the first half of the seventh century Kashi formed an integral part of Harshvardhana reign.

Following the death of Harshvardhana in the latter half of the seventh century, there was a chaos in whole of the northern India. Consequently from the middle of ninth century till 1027 A D it remained under the control of Gurjaras and Pratihars before they were thrown away by Mahmud of Gazani. Consequently effect of this episode led to anarchism in the region which was later on put to an end by Gahadawal dynasty. The rule of independent Hindu dynasty in Varanasi had virtually come to an end during 1194-1195 AD, when it fell into the hands of Mohammad Ghauri after the defeat of Jaichandra of Gahadaval dynasty. 

In l322 Varanasi was governed from Zafarabad in Jaunpur during the region of Mohammed Bin Tughlaque. Then for a short while this region became a centre of reformists activities in religion and social spheres. In 1526 Ibrahim Lodhi was defeated in the battle of Panipat and Humaun the son of Babar occupied this region. Humaun was, however, defeated in the battle of Chausa by Sher Khan. Akbar the great Mughal Emperor is said to have reached Varanasi in 1556 and conferred the three Sirkars of Baranas, Jaunpur and Ghazipur on Munim Khan after taking them away from Ali Quli Khan. The area continued to be administered by various governor appointed by Mughal Emperor. 

In 1738 Mansaram, a Gautam Bhumihar and Jamindar was given the administration of Sirkars of Varanasi, Jaunpur and Chunar by Sadat Khan – Subedar of Avadh. The administration passed on to his son Balwant Singh after his death. In 1775 the Kashi kingdom had come under the influence of British Empire. Later he had on confrontation with Warren Hastings, the Governor General who installed Mahip Narain Singh, son of Balwant Singh’s daughter as successor to Chit Singh. The last king of this generation was Vibhuti Narain Singh who ruled for about eight years till the country attained its independence when Banaras state was merged with India. On 25-05-1997, eastern part of Varanasi district, comprising the three tahsils Sakaldiha, Chandauli and Chakia, was cut off from it and a new district named Chandauli was creatied. 

In 1911, Banaras got the status of state. After independence when all the states of India merged with Union of India, Banaras state was also merged in it. During the period of Maharaja Udit Narain Singh, Gyanpur was a pargana of Mirzapur district and before 1911 Bhadohi was made district of Banaras state.

BUDAUN, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: SHAKEEL BADAUNI

Shakeel Badayuni was one of the most popular composers of Urdu Shayri, and Gazals. He was famous Urdu poet, lyricist and songwriter in Hindi films also. He was born on 3rd August 1916 at Mohalla Baido Tola in Budaun. He got his primary education in Urdu, Arabi and Persian at his home from his father Maulla Jamil Ahmad of Shokhta’s family. He passed his Higher Secondary in 1936 from Maston Islamia High School and graduated from Aligarh Muslim University in 1942. In 1946, Shakeel Budauni resigned from his job in supply department, Delhi and joined Kadar Studio in Film Industry at Mumbai as a lyricist. 

He got education of ‘shayari’ from Mohd. Zila-ul-Kadri alias Jam Badauni and Jigari. His main compositions published were ‘Ranaiyan’, ‘Sanmon Hasan’, ‘Rangeeniyan’, ‘Shabistan’, ‘Nagma-e-firdos’, ‘Door koi Gaye’, ‘Shakeel ki Diary’ etc. He actively participated and organised a number of seminars in Urdu, English and Hindi. Shakeel Badauni, the ‘Shayr’ of Urdu gazals was popular as the ‘King of Gazals’. Shakeel Budauni earned respect in film industry as a Film lyricist of Urdu and Hindi songs. Shakeel Budauni passed away on 20th April of 1970 at the age of 54. 

His memorable melodious and heart touching songs are still afresh in the memory of Indian folk, which were provided for unforgettable movies like, Babul, Mela, Aan, Ganga-Jamuna, Didar, Ghunghat, Udan Khatola, Baiju Bawra, Mother India, Mugal-eazam, Chaudhawin ka Chand and Gharana etc.

Brief History

The district is named after its headquarters town Budaun, which is said to be Vedamau of the Mahabharat and Budhmau of the Buddha period. An inscription found near the suburb of the town indicates that it was known as Vodamayuta in the 12th and 13th centuries and in course of time got corrupted to Budaun. But the evidence of ancient coins and other antiquities discovered here shows that some earlier town on the same site existed long before the advent of Muslims in India. With the finding of numerous prehistorically bronze weapons and tools, it is beyond doubt that this region must have been civilized long ago, probably during the Bronze Age or even earlier. 

The earliest known Aryan people, who settled in this region, were Panchals, who were the close allies of the Kurus, as is indicated by the joint name, Kuru Panchala. About the middle of the fourth century B.C. this region was annexed to the Nanda empire of Magadha and after the overthrow of the Nandas a quarter of century later, the district became part of the powerful Maurya Empire. With the downfall of the Mauryas, Sungas established their dynasty which lasted about one hundred years i.e. from 187 B.C. to 75 B.C. After Sungas, the Kanva dynasty wielded power. The history of the region from the end of the Kanva rule to the rise of the Guptas is very obscure.

About the beginning of the first century B.C. a third dynasty came into existence in Panchala which consisted of some fourteen successive rulers, all having names ending in ‘Mitra’ and have hence often designated as the Mitra rulers of Panchala. The beginnings of the second century A.D. Kushanas subjugated Mitra of Panchala and were allowed to live as deodorise. During the fourth century A.D. Gupta once again established imperial unity in India. 

After the downfall of the Guptas in the latter half of the sixth century A.D. the district appears to have come under the domination of the Maukhari Kings of Kannauj and after them under that of the emperor Harsha (606-647 A.D.). After the death of Harsha, the history of the region, as that of the rest of Northern India, spells anarchy and confusion. Sometime in the first half of the ninth century, it came under the sway of the rising power of the Gurjara Pratiharas.

The Pratiharas Empire of Kannauj collapsed under the repeated shocks of terrible onslaughts by Muslims. With the establishment of Rashtrakutas in the region, the prosperity and importance of Budaun grew tremendously and soon it became one of the premier cities of Northern India. There are ruins of an immense fort and a very handsome mosque of imposing size, crowned with a dome, and built in 1223. According to tradition, Badaun was founded about 905, and an inscription, probably of the 12th century, gives a list of twelve Rathor kings reigning at Badaun (called Vodamayuta).

The first authentic historical event connected with it, however, was its capture by Qutb-ud-din Aybak in 1196, after which it became a very important post on the northern frontier of the Delhi Empire. In 1197-98 Qutb-ud-din Aibak, Mohammad Ghori’s governor took possession of the city. Qutb-ud-din Aibak on his accession to the Delhi throne in 1210, appointed Iltutmish as governor of this place. Ghiya-ud-din Balban rode to the throne of Delhi in 1265-66. 

In the very year of his reign Balban was beset with the serious problem of Katehriya uprising in Budaun and Amroha. He suppressed the rebellion in such an exemplary manner that “the blood of the rioters ran in streams, heaps of slain were to be seen near every village and jungle and the stench of the dead reached as far as Ganges.” In the 13th century two of its governors, Shams-ud-din Iltutmish, and his son Rukn-ud -din Firuz, attained the imperial throne.

In 1289, Jalal-ud-din Feroz ascended the throne of Delhi and founded the Khilji dynasty. He was succeeded by Ala-ud-din. After the death of Alaud-din nothing is heard about Budaun till the accession of Feroz Tughlaq, the third ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty in 1351. After the death of Firoz, confusion reigned supreme throughout the empire and in 1394 Budaun came in possession of Nusrat Shah, while Mahmud was confined to Delhi throne during the early years of Mahmud’s reign. Mahabat Khan was appointed governor of Budaun. In 1571 the town was burnt, and about a hundred years later, under Shah Jahan, the seat of the governorship was transferred to Sahaspur- Bilari.

It is rather surprising that the history of Budaun remains almost obscure throughout the reign of Akbar, more so because, one of the greatest historian of the day, Abdul Qadir Budauni was the native of this place. This may have been either due to the fact that Budaun relapsed into insignificance or no significant event occurred to attract the attention of the chronicler. Abu Fazl’s Ain-i-Akbari throws a considerable light on the administration of the district during Akbar’s reign. The foremost change that was brought in this regime was that Budaun lost its status of being the capital of a province and became merely a sirkar in the subah of Delhi. 

The history of Budaun remains obscure for considerable period after the death of Akbar in 1605. During the middle of eighteenth century Hafiz Rahmat Khan, a Rohilla warrior played an important role in the history of this region. He was defeated and killed in 1774 and the whole of Rohilkhand passed into the hands of Shuja-ud-daula. For twenty seven years, Budaun remained in the possession of the rulers of Awadh. But in 1801, the Nawab Vizir of Awadh agreed to surrender Rohilkhand and other territories to the East India Company. Till 1856, the district remained peaceful.

On the eve of freedom struggle of 1857 the people of the district took part in the struggle. The month of May 1858, saw the gradual restoration of order and the British rule. Thereafter, for 50 years the district remained peaceful and made considerable economic progress. The 20th century saw the dawn of nationalism in the country. However, in between the Swadeshi era and the advent of Gandhiji on the political scene, there was no remarkable political happening in the district. 

The beginning of 1920 saw the foundation of the district congress committee and during the same year, the Non-co-operation Movement started by Gandhiji also spread in the district. In 1930, Civil Disobedience Movement was started in Budaun, as in the other parts of the country. During this Movement, more than 600 persons from the district were sent to jail. During Quit India Movement nearly all the local leaders were arrested but their place was continuously filled up by other people. On August 15, 1947 the country achieved its long awaited dream of independence. The district celebrated the Independence Day in the befitting manner.

BIJNOR, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: BITHOOR MANDIR

During Dwapar era, the temple finds mention as one of the residential premises of the ‘Chachashri’ – Mahatma Bithoor of ‘Kauravas and Pandavas’ situated on the bank of river Ganga. The place is still known as ‘Bithoor Kuti’/ Bithoor Ashram. The ancient Bithoor mandir is being visited by numerous devotees every year. The tradition is that before the battle of Mahabharatha, the Lord Krishna had come from Mathura to Hastinapur in order to resolve the crises among the Kauravas and Pandavas. 

Dronacharya totally denied Lord Krishna to let even a pin-point piece of land to the Pandvas. Hence, Lord Krishna got annoyed went to Mahatma Bithoor’s Ashram and ate ‘bathua saag’ (a variety of green vegetable leaves) with him. During the historical Mahabharatha battle, the women and their children took shelter at Dhara Nagari within the close proximity of the Ashram and there they resided quite safe and sound. The remains of that ancient shelter house (‘Sharan Sthali’) may be visualized still in a dilapidated state.

Brief History

The origin of the district as described in Mahabharat and Puranas to the foundation to Raja Ben and described as Vena, a minor hero King of Northern India and though his name is less a household word than those of Rama, Vikramaditya and Salivahana, he has fairly familiar reputation as a Chakravarti or universal emperor. Names after him are castle mounds near Bijnor. In Bijnor, he is considered as contemporary of Rama. Mandawar in the Bijnor tahsil was identified by Vivien de St. Martin and General Cunningham with the Mo-ti-pu-lo or Matipura of Hiuen Tsang, the identification is open to the usual doubts though an attempt was made, without excavation, to recognize the objects described by Chinese pilgrim.

The kingdom of Mo-ti-pu-lo may certainly have included part of this district where Buddhism was flourishing. The Anna’s of Bijnor under the early muslim rulers of Delhi were to a large extent identical with the history of the country, known as katehr, which at the first seems to have been included in the Single Government of Budaun and afterwards had been divided between Budaun and Sambhal. Some account of Bijnor is found in the writings of the poet, Amir Khusro, who stated that when the Sultan quarreled with his son, Khizr Khan, in 1315 he sent him in disgrace to Amroha, adding that the prince might have the country between that town and the hills as hunting ground. Games were so numerous there “ten antelopes might had been killed with a single arrow.”

The emperor, in 1526 sent Zahid Khan to take charge of the district, but the power of the Afghans was yet unbroken, and the Mughal forces were compelled to evacuate Sambhal, which became one of the strong holds of the opposing party. But 1737 Ali Mohammed was a person of great importance, have acquired much fame and little of Nawab for his action in crushing the Barha Saiyeds in Muzaffar Nagar. He then proceeded to extend his authority and in 1742 defeated and killed Raja Harchand Khattri, the governor of Moradabad, thus acquiring total area of Sambhal and Amroha. Ali Mohammad there upon proceeded with his army to Daranagar on the bank of Ganga in this district and then arranged for a compromise with Mir Manu, to whom he gave his daughter in marriage with a large dowry, the result of this agreement being the retention of whole Sambhal by the Afghans. In the time of Akbar the district was included in the Sirkar of Sambhal in the subah of Delhi. In the beginning the district comprised seventeen parganas but frequent changes took place in its composition. When this portion was handed over to the East India Company by the Nawab Vizir of Avadh in 1801, the district formed part of the territorial division known as Rohilkhand and was under the charge of Collector.

The district first included in the vast area known as the Collectorate of Moradabad. A new district was formed in 1817 under the name of the northern division of Moradabad, with headquarters at Nagina. The first Collector was Bosanquet. He was succeeded by Halhed who shifted the headquarters to Bijnor in 1824. This was ostensibly done on the ground of the unhealthiness of Nagina but the real reason was the great distance from the Military station of Merrut. It was not, however, till 1837 that the old appellation was dropped altogether and the district became as Bijnor. The principal alterations in the area were affected by the transfer of Taluka Chandi from Garhwal to the district in 1842 and the relinquishment 1866 of villages lying between the foot hills and submon-tane road, while minor rectifications took place from time to time on the western border by the action of river Ganga.

The story of Mutiny in the Bijnor is in many ways remarkable. Brigadier Jones pushed on the main body and occupied Najibabad, where the Nawab’s hall of audience was destroyed. The fort of Pathargarh was found empty, save for a number of guns and large quantities ammunition and grain. Mr. Shakespeare, who had accompanied the force, at once resumed charge of the district, making Najibabad his headquarters, the tahsils and police posts were re-established and every effort was made to induce the Mohammedans to return to their peaceful avocations.

But the district was far from pacified and the rebels needed another severe lesson on 21st of April. Jones continued his advance, hearing that a force had taken up a position at Nagina. This victory, of which a detailed account could be found in the Comhill Magazine of January 1863, was decisive. Bijnor was occupied without opposition. After the capture Lucknow Sir Coliss Campbell directed a column to form at Roorkee and hence to march through Rohelkhand to Bareily, where another Rohilla Nawab exercised a precarious sway. This force was commanded by Brigadier Jones whose Second-in- Command was Colonel J. Code of the1st Punjab infantry.

On the 17th of April Column crossed the Ganga at Hardwar and Coke was sent on rapidly towards Nagal to meet the enemy who were known to be in strength in the forest. After covering four miles, Coke met with a strong body of rebels at Bhogniwala and having silenced this, let loose the multanis, whose repeated charges drove the enemy head long, causing them to abandon guns and baggage and to fly into the jungle with heavy loss. The history of Bijnor properly begins with its constitution as a separate charge, but as the present area was from the first inception of British rules treated more or less as a district subdivision. Since the mutiny and annals of Bijnor have been uneventful, save for the occurrence from time to time of famines, revisions of the land revenues.

SULTANPUR, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: Parijat Tree

Located on the bank of river Gomti in the town of Sultanpur, the tree is referred in the manuscripts of ancient period which was treated as equivalent to ‘Kalp-Vriksh’ as mentioned in the legends. The district is proud of having this unique tree. It is said that the tree is age old and only a botanist can explain its age exactly. During British regime, one British family resided beneath the tree in a bungalow and the remains of which are still visible. On every Monday, a fair is held and God fearing people worship the tree. By tradition it is prevalent that who ever comes here gets his deemed desire fulfilled. During the month of August (Shravan-Monday) devotees in thousands come here. A month long fair is held every year. This fair caters to the needs of large crowd from the adjoining

areas of the district.

Brief History

The district is named after its headquarters town, Sultanpur. In ancient days this town was known as Kusapura or Kushbhawanpur after the name of its founder Kusha son of Lord Rama.

The present area of the district in historical perspective cannot be exactly assertained due to lack of authentic inscription. But the area covered by the district seems to have been inhabited since primitive times. The popular legends and traditions are associated with the life of Lord Rama and his family clan. Many ancient sites are found at various places of the district. The ancient forts mounds and ruins of brick structure are ascribed, to the Bhars- the aboriginals who held the local power in the area till they were dislodged by Rajputs and Muslims. It is believed that the area was part of Panchala kingdom which extended from the foot of Himalayas in the north to the river Chambal in the south with the capital at Ahichhetra, the flourishing metropolis of ancient India.

The district was annexed to the Magadha empire in 364 B.C. After the Magadha empire, the Mauryas ruled this region under Chandragupta Maurya who unified northern India. The most important king of this dynasty was Ashoka, who patronised Buddhism and combined in himself the zeal of a monk and the wisdom of a king. With the fall of Mauryas, Sunga dynasty came into power. In the beginning of the first century B.C. Shakas invaded northern India and settled at a number of places. One such settlement was Mathura, the headquarters of Rajuvula. Some coins of Rajuvula recoverd from this district, prove that Shakas have ruled over the district. Also a number of coins of Kanishka were found in the district, which proves that it was included in the empire of Kanishka (78-102 A.D.). Kanishka was a great patron of Buddhist religion like Ashoka.

The Guptas of Pataliputra (Patna) came to power with Chandragupta I, who commenced his rule from about 320 A.D. His Son Samudragupta conquered the Avadh region including this district along with other parts of India and annexed it to his empire. Chandragupta II (380-413) also followed his father’s policy of world conquest. He assumed the title of ‘Vikramaditya.’In the beginning of the 6 century when Gupta became weak, their feudatories the Maukharies replaced them and made Kannauj their capital. On the decline of the power of Maukharies, Harsha (606-47) acquired the throne of Kannauj. During his reign the famous Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang presumably passed through this district.

After the death of Harsha, his empire break up and anarchy prevailed for about half a century in northern India. It appears that Bhars possessed the whole tract including this district. They carved out semi-independent principalities and ruled over them subject to the control of the Kings of Kannauj, which was ruled by Yashovarman in the first part of the 8 century A.D. During the 9 century the Gurjara- Pratihars of Kannauj carved out an empire including whole of the Uttar Pradesh and naturally this district was included in it.

The rule of Gurjara-Pratiharas was brought to an end by Mahmud of Ghazni who annexed Kannauj in 1018. But the district seems to have remained in the possession of the Bhars. By the end of the 11 century Chandradeva, the first powerful King of Gahadavalas established himself at Kannauj and brought under his sway the whole of Uttar Pradesh. It may be presumed that the district of Sultanpur must have been brought under his control and formed part of his empire until the overthrow of its King Jai Chand in 1193 by Shahab-ud-din Ghori.

After the defeat of Jai Chand, it appears that Bhars were left in undisputed control of district. Qutb-ud-din Aibak was favourite slave and trusted lieutenant of Shihab-ud- din Ghori. Ghori’s viceroy at Delhi, consolidated his hold over the country including Avadh of which Sultanpur district formed part. Qutb-ud-Din Aibak died in 1200 A.D. and was succeeded by his son, Aram Shah, who was superceded a year later by Iltutmish (1212-1236A.D.)in whose reign, tradition states that Hasan Mahmud was governor of Sultanpur and his jurisdiction extended to Jaunpur. About 1248 Bashir Shah of Sultan Nasiruddin Mohammad fled from his home and established himself in Jamanwan village and afterwards in Bhadaiyan of Sultanpur district, the area is said to have been represented by Ala-ud- din Khilji from 1296-1316 A.D. 

The Sharqi Dynasty of Jaunpur ruled the district of Sultanpur with the rest of Avadh and was succeeded by his adopted son Mubrak Shah who lateron in 1402 was followed by Ibrahim Shah. He was most ardent propagator of Islam and was said to have converted large number of the district’s inhabitants to their faith. Coins of that period have been excavated on the south bank of Gomti. Sultan of Delhi swayed district around 1479 A.D. The overthrow of Humayun by Sher Shah Suri in 1539-40 was an important event for the district . After the battle of Panipat Mughals became master of northern India. During Akbar’s reign Sultanpur was an important suba of Avadh. Amethi and Jagdishpur composed of many Mahals during above regime. Aurangzeb was the last emperor to have paid a visit to Israuli Dargah during his reign 1658-1707.

After the death of Aurangzeb (1707) the bulk of the area of Sultanpur was divided between the Subahs of Allahabad and Avadh and the history of the district for a time presents almost a blank except for the petty strifes among the local chiefs. The latter Mughal emperors of Delhi had little to do with the district and about the next hundred and fifty years the Nawab of Avadh were its virtual masters. In 1722 Saadat Khan was appointed governor of this province and was the first of the Nawab of Avadh. In 1793 Mirza Sattar Beg was appointed Nazim of Sultanpur but next year he was replaced by Sital Prasad who held the charge of district administration till 1800.

On January 21, 1798 Saadat Ali Khan appointed by John Shene the governor general as Nayab Vazir of Avadh. Saadat Ali Khan entered into a new agreement with the East India Company. Now Sultanpur became the headquarters of Nizamat which comprised all the territory between Allahabad on the south and the Ghaghra on the north and from Jagdishpur to British territory of the east. Ghazi-ud-din Haider was the successor of nawab Saadat ali Khan. After death of Ghazi-ud-din Haider his son Nasir-ud-din Haider appointed Raja Darshan singh to the post of Nazim of Sultanpur. Wajid Ali Shah (1847-56) the last king of Avadh ruled the present territory of the district but in 1856 Lord Dalhouise, the governor general deposed Wajid Ali Shah and annexed his territories including the district of Sultanpur to the British empire.

On June 9, 1857 the struggle for freedom was commenced at Sultanpur, when the troops rose against the British. The political history of the district since 1858-59 has been uneventful on the whole, until the formation of district Khilafat committee in 1921, which gave a new dimension to the freedom struggle. The people of this district whole heartedly took part in the all movements for freedom. During struggle for freedom the district was visited by great national leaders like Jawahar Lal Nehru, Subash Chandra Bose and Rafi Ahmad Kidwai. The country and with it district achieved the long sought for independence from British rule on August 15, 1947.

KHERI, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: DUDHWA NATIONAL PARK

Spread over an area of 490 sq.km. in a part of the Dudhwa Tiger Reserve in district Kheri. The Dudhwa National Park is situated at an approximate distance of 30 km.away from Mailani and 10 km. from Palia. It was established in 1977. This national park is endowed with breathtaking natural beauty and an abundance of wildlife. River Ramganga meanders through the park and it is bordered by thickly wooded hills, dense forests of Sal (‘Shoria robasta’), Khair, Asna etc., and grasslands, known as Chaurs. The great bio-diversity of the area is attributed to its situation in the Shivalik tarai biotic province in the foothills of the Himalaya. In addition, numerous families of uncountable trees, grasses, aqua-plants and creepers are also found where the swamp-deers and folks of other families of deers roam hither and thither freely, which are Stag, Sambhar, Cheetal, Podha and Kakar. 

There are various lake-like ponds of different sizes and streams in the dense grasslands where nearabout 90 species of fishes may be seen in a large number. Over 400 species of various colourful birds including pheasant, peafowl, junglefowl, drougos etc. which come here from far and other countries can also be found here. Besides the wild animals like tiger, leopard, lion, panther, bear, elephant etc. and aqua animal like sea-horse, hippotamus, crocodile, tortoise are present in large number. Among the serpents python, cobra are the main reptile while almost extinct Bengal phloricane and hiripid here may also be seen now-a-days. Being adjacent to the Nepal border, the wild elephants from Nepal often enter into the forests of the park and live there for a number of months. All the animals enjoy here freedom of natural wild life.

Brief History

Traditions point to the inclusion of this place under the rule of the Lunar race of Hastinapur, and several places are associated with episodes in the Mahabharata. Many villages contain ancient mounds in which fragments of sculpture have been found, Balmiar-Barkhar and Khairlgarh being the most remarkable. Kheri is a place of some antiquity, and contains a tine tomb built over the remains of Saiyid Khurd, who died in 1563. It is administered under Act XX of 1856, with an income of about Rs. 800. Though giving its name to the District, it is of small importance. A daily market is held, and the town contains a branch of the American Methodist Mission and a school with 144 pupils.

According to the legend ‘Kheri’ town was so named as there was an abundance of rice and milk in the area which are main ingredients of ‘kheer’. This historical lore of the region covering the present district is said to represent the Kingdom, which formed part of the domains of the lunar race of ‘Kshatriyas’ of Hastinapur. The earliest tradition of this place is associated with the ‘Ramayana’ and ‘Purana. The sites, monuments, temples and shrines reveal that the district sometime served as an ideal retreat for Buddhist monks and Hindu Sages. At later stage, the region was occupied by ‘Mauryas’. After the fall of Maurya dynasty, it passed into the hands of ‘Sungas’. This fact of the history is supported by the discovery of a coin belonging to Agnimitra and a clay seal bearing inscription of ‘Varahdatta’. Till the death of Vasudeo, the district was under the sway of ‘Kushana’ and this period saw the rise of imperial ‘Guptas’. 

After the decline of ‘Guptas’ for some time, the history of this region was completely obscure. When Vardhana dynasty came to power at ‘Kannauj’, the region was included in the territories of ‘Harsh’. A stone horse was found near Khairabad and bears the inscription of Samudra Gupta, dated in the 4thcentury. Samudra Gupta, King of Magadha performed Ashvamedha yajna in which a horse is left to freely roam in the entire nation, so as to display the power of king and to underline the importance of his conquest. The northern part of Lakhimpur Kheri was held by Rajputs in the 10th century. Muslim rule spread slowly to this remote and inhospitable tract. In the 14th century several forts were constructed along the northern frontier, to prevent the incursions of attacks from Nepal.

Till the beginning of 12th century the present district appeared isolated from the spate of Muslim conquests. In 1394 when Mohammad Shah was on the throne of Delhi, the district passed into the charge of Malik Sarwar, known as Khawaja-e-Jahan, who obtained the title of Malik-ush-Sharq and held all the region between Kannauj and Bihar. In the days of Akbar, the district formed part of the province of Awadh. The history of the reign of Akbar, although spread over a wide territory. Very meagre information or just casual references to this region is available. Besides some stray references, this tract appears to have figured only sparingly in historical events during the reign of Akbar.

During the Mughal Empire in the 17th century, under the rule of Akbar the district formed part of the Sarkar of Khairabad in the Subah of Oudh. The later history of 17th century under the Nawabs of Awadh, is of the rise and decline of individual ruling families. In the year 1801 when Rohilkhand was ceded to the British, part of this district was included in the session, but after the Anglo–Nepalese War of 1814-1816 it was restored to Oudh. On the annexation of Oudh in 1856 the west of the present area was formed into a district called Mohammadi and the east into Mallanpur, which also included part of Sitapur.

In the Indian Rebellion of 1857 Mohammadi became one of the centers of Indian independence movement in northern Oudh. The refugees from Shahjahanpur reached Mohammadi on 2 June 1857, and two days later Mohammadi was abandoned, most of the British party was shot down on the way to Sitapur, and the survivors died or were murdered later in Lucknow. The British officials in Mallanpur, with a few who had fled from Sitapur, escaped to Nepal, where later on most of them died. Till October 1858, British officials did not make any other attempt to regain control of the district. By the end of 1858 British officials regained the control and the headquarters of the single district then formed were moved to Lakhimpur shortly afterwards.

The prominent local families that ruled this district were Bachhils, Saiyids and Abhans. During the early days of the Awadh government, the boundaries of the present district were not clearly defined. The district was annexed by British in 1858. Kheri as a district was primarily used as a game reserve by its British rulers who declared it as backward area. The wave of patriotism swept the district during the entire period of freedom struggle. People of this district took active part in all the movements called by the national leaders of that era. Many eminent national leaders like Jawaharlal Nehru, Rajendra Prasad, Subhash Chandra Bose, Acharya Narendra Dev, Sampurnanand, Chandra Bhanu Gupta, Govind Ballabh Pant and Rafi Ahmad Kidwai visited this district. In 1958 the district was reorganised and Mullanpur was included in ‘Sitapur’. In 1954, due to the change in the course of Ghaghra River, few villages of district Bahraich were transferred to Nighasan tahsil of the district. Dudhwa National Park, is in Lakhimpur Kheri and is the only national park in Uttar Pradesh. It is home to a large number of rare and endangered species including tigers, leopards, swamp deer, hispid hares and Bengal Floricans.

HARDOI, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: GHANTAGHAR

During 1850-1863 district Hardoi was created under the administration of District Magistrate W.S. Chapper. Owing to freedom struggle of 1857 there had been a great fight between the army of the East India Company and the freedom fighters from areas of Madhoganj, Ruiya of Hardoi. The work of district’s formation was withheld for a while and later on it was completed by the time the Victoria Charter was brought into force by 1877. Abolishing Company’s rule in India, British Parliament handed over the charge to Queen Victoria and Her Highness was honoured with the crown of ‘Kaiser-e-Hind’. 

The Queen announced general amnesty to freedom fighters of 1857 struggle. On the occasion of celebrations of enthronement of Queen Victoria on 16th February of 1886, District Magistrate Lieutinent Colonel Harns Fort held a meeting with the local residents who were associated with the ‘Company’ in the 1857 struggle and chalked out a plan to construct a ‘Ghantaghar’ (Clocktower) as a memory. After the completion of the construction of the clock-tower, a huge clock from the Great Britain was installed on top of the tower which worked till 1959-60 only. Till then, it’s melodious alarm and sound of ‘bells’ could be heard up to a distance of five miles which itself speaks of the historic event.

Brief History

The early history of the district is based on traditions and legendary allusions of Shiva Purana which relates Hardoi with to Thathera king of Hiranya Kashyap who called himself the God. As per the legend ‘Hardoi’ has been derived from the word ‘Haridrohi’. It is believed from Puranas a king named Hirnakashyap ruled the district in the olden times. Hirnakashyap was an enemy of God Vishnu and his son named Prahalad was given severe punishments for the reason that Prahalad was a devotee of Vishnu. 

Upon this Vishnu had to incarnate himself as Narsingh and killed the king. Since Hirnakashyap hated the God, thus the place derived its name as Haridrohi which in course of time become Hardoi. According to some scholars, the term "Hardoi" originated from the term "Haridwaya" which means two gods. Since there were two gods, Vamana Bhagavan (in the regime of King Bali) and Narasimha Bhagavan (in the regime of King Hiranyakashipu) had been incarnated hence the place called Haridwaya and later called Hardoi.

There is another legend who says that there was a chieftain named ‘Harnakas’ who too was an enemy of God which may be another reason for its name as Haridrohi. There is another version about this that Hardoi was founded by Hardev Baksa. This is also confirmed by the fact that there still exists a Mohalla (locality) in the name of Hardev Baksa. As per one more opinion there was a great saint Hardev Baba from which the district derived its name.

Mallawa, Bilgram, Pihani, Shahabad, Sandila & Ruiyaa are the places of historical significance. According to some historians Mallawa was colonized by Buddhists while some believed that Sayyed Salar Masood Gazi came here. Earlier this area Mallawa was district headquarter. The ancient name of Bilgram is "SRINAGAR" its present name Bilgram was given by some associates of Mahmood Gajnavi. Pihani is derived by persian word Pinhani (place of shelter), it is believed that king of Moughal dynasty Humayun took shelter in the forest of Pihani when he was defeated by Shershah Suri. Pihani is also related with the minister Sadarejahan of Emperor Akbar. His tomb and paintings are still here. According to the view of some people; Sandila was colonized by Rishi Sandilya. Sandila is also famous for old buildings, Mosque & Barakhamba.

Many historical events attach political importance to the district. Hardoi is first mentioned during the Muslim rule. In 1028, Bwan was invaded by Sayyid Salara Masgud. However, Muslims didn’t occupy the region until 1217. After long struggle Sayyad Shakir established first Muslim site at GOPAMAU. Many battles between the Mogul and Afghan empires took place in Hardoi district due to the situation of the district. Humayun was defeated by Sher Shah Suri between the cities of Bilgram and Sandi, and he escaped by crossing the river Ganges with the help of a bhisti to whom he had made the king for one day after regaining the throne.

Mahmood Ghaznavi is said to have invaded it in 1019 A.D. and the great Chausa war between Humayun and Shershah Suri was taken place near Bilgram in 1539. Hardoi formed part of Suba of Avadh under the Mughals, which was ruled by Avadh dynasty of Nawabs and formed border with the territory of Rohillas. In 1773 a brigade of British troops was stationed near Bilgram which was shifted to Kanpur. Later till 1849, Hardoi remained as most lawless tracts in the then Avadh province. 

Later, in February 1856, Hardoi, as a part of Oudh, became part of the British territory after Lord Dalhousie's proclamation. The district was annexed to the British Empire in 1856 along with the rest of the Avadh province and a district was formed with its headquarters at Mallawan. After a year (1857), the first war of independence broke out, plunging the whole area in the state of anarchy. In 1858, the district headquarter was shifted to Hardoi from Mallawan and has retained its position till date.

MUZAFFARNAGAR, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: SANT SWAMI KALYANDEO JI MAHARAJ

Among the great sages, ‘munis’ and ‘sants’ of the country, Sant Swami Kalyandeo ji Maharaj is one who is said to be born in1876. Spontaneous instinct for ‘vairagya’ arose in his heart in his childhood. At the age of 10 years being ambiguous for ‘vairagya’ with intensive curiosity, he left his house for ‘tapasya’ in Uttara-khand hills. In 1900, getting ‘diksha of sanyas’ in the form of ‘Reti of Muni’ from the most respectable Sant Shiromani Swami Purnanand ji Maharaj he earned the name as Swami Kalyandeo. Inspired by the Nation’s father – Mahatma Gandhi, he served the poor day and night, pity and helpless ones, barefooted visiting them from village to village. 

For renovation of ‘Shuka - teerth’ (Shuktar), Swami ji constituted Shri Shukdev Ashram Society and to develop the sacred pilgrimage Shuktar (Shukratal), he constructed temples, ‘yagya shala’, ‘Bhagwat Bhawan’, Sanskrit vidyalaya, cow-sheds, hermitages etc in a handsome number and also with his efforts the facilities of roads, electricity, post office, telecommunication, police statipon, various inns, ashrams etc could be attained. With his devotion to mankind and hard labour, near about 300 institutions have been established and his dream of making the Shukratal, the “Heaven of the today’s earth”, came true. Swami ji realizes that service to mankind is the worship of God. He believes in simple living and high thinking and likes to accept food and other eatables from the poor and farmers in place of accepting valuables and precious gifts from the rich section of the society. On account of his meritorious social services rendered towards the nation he was honoured with ‘Padmashri’ and with ‘Padambhushan’ by the then His Excellency The President of India.

Brief History

The district is named after its headquarters town, Muzaffarnagar, which was founded in the reign of Shahjahan at the site of an old town known as Sarot or Sarwat. Abdul Muzaffar Khan, a minister of the emperor Shahjahan, received from him in jagir forty villages in Parganas Khatauli and Sarwat, along with the title Khan-i-Jahan Shah-Jahani. Sarwat was the chief town of his possessions but it was at that time almost deserted. Khani-Jahan started building a new town near Sarwat on lands taken from Sujru and Khera. He founded the city of Muzaffarnagar in 1633 with lands of KHERA & SUJRU. It was, however, completed by his son, Abdul Mansur Khan and named Muzaffarnagar after his late father Abdul Muzaffar Khan. The name did not remain restricted to the town only and in course of time the district also came to be called Muzaffarnagar.

The early history of the district is associated with Rigveda when the entire region of doab of Ganga and Yamuna was called Madhyadesha. It came into prominence when the Aryans settled here and developed their culture and civilization. According to the traditional history as gleamed from Purans and the epics, the earliest known king who ruled over this part was Pureravas Aila, progenitor of the Lunar dynasty. During Mahabharata about 1400 BC, the district was part of Kuru Empire under Parikshita, grandson of Arjun, the third of the five Pandav brothers. It may be surmised from Buddha literature that the area of the district in the 6th century B.C. was forming a part of Kuru Mahajanpad. The coins and archaeological findings conjecture that the district was dominated by Mauryan rulers, Shungas and Kushanas.

In the middle of the seventh century A.D. it was included in the principalities under the king Harsha. These territories were visited by Chinese pilgrim Hiuen Tsiang. During the Muslim rulers, the area formed part of Delhi Sultanate and was ruled by Mohammad Ghauri and then ruled by Mohammad Tughlaq. After the battle of Taraori in 1192 A.D., Prithvi Raj chauhan was defeated and the domination of the district came under the sway of Shahab-ud-din Ghauri. He left Qutab-ud-din Aibak as incharge of his conquered territories to hold over his possession including the area covered by this district. But the Jats who by now had risen into prominence in the district did not allow the Muslim conquerors to establish themselves in 1398-99 A.D., the district was overrun by invading hordes of Temur from Central Asia.

Towards the latter half of the 14th century Saiyeds of Bahra influenced the local history of the district. Later on this district was adopted by the Saiyeds of different clans. During Mughal period this area became a favorite resort of royal nobles of Mughal court and many of them obtained JAGIRS here. The history of Barha Saiyeds is intimately connected with this district. But the derivation of word BARHA is very uncertain. In later part of Munhall era famous Saied brothers Hasaan and Abdulla have great influence.

In the Mughal period, Babar in his fifth expedition passed down the doab through this district. In the days of Akbar, the entire district belonged to Sarkar of Saharanpur with the exception of Pargana Kandhla, which was then part of Sarkar of Delhi. At that time Pargana of Muzaffarnagar was known as Sarvat, later on this was changed to Muzaffarnagar in the empire of Shahjahan when Sarwat and Khatauli were bestowed upon Saiyed Muzaffar Khan Khan-i-jahan, in the honour of whom the town Muzaffarnagar was founded. Sikhs came next plundering the towns of Bhat, Saharanpur and Ambahta. The period of 1707 to 1720 was their prime time. But after fall of Saiyed brothers the political scenario changed and Muzaffarnagar was plundered by Sikhs and other adventurers.

After the capture of Meerut and execution of Ghulam Qadir in 1788 the Marathas marched northwards through doab and annexed the northern districts of which Ghani Bahadur of Banda became the first Governor. After the conquest in 1803 by the British, the district was attached to Moradabad. In August 1804 the area comprising the present district of Muzaffarnagar was assigned to Saharanpur. For the first two years the part of the district was administered by resident of Delhi. It was in 1824 when the district was formed by creating a sub-collectorship at Muzaffarnagar. Soon the British established themselves in India and 1826 Muzaffarnagar became a revenue district of East India Company regime. In 1826 sub-collectorship was converted into regular district and further changes took place. Consequent upon the settlement of 1838-40 the next great series of change took place in 1841. In 1853 settlement villages from Meerut transferred to Muzaffarnagar district and the process continued to the next successive settlements of 1860-68.

The district has a history of active participation in freedom struggle during twentieth century. The people of the district took part in all the movements initiated by the great national leaders. During the first struggle for freedom in 1857 a lot of action was done in the District. During that period British property was destroyed and treasury was looted. British officers and soldiers were killed. But this reprisal against British rule was ruthlessly crushed. After those attempts the course of Indian National Movement changed and the Indian National Congress came into fore. The educated elite took the path of peaceful constitutional methods. On the 6th of April, 1919 office of Indian National Congers was opened. Freedom struggle in Muzaffarnagar was guided by the national movement in India. A lot of police atrocities took place in the district. Many freedom fighters were put in the jail on fabricated charges; but they refused to be cowed down. In 1939 the 10th district political conference was held at Muzaffarnagar on 23rd December, under the President-ship of Purshottam Das Tandon who appealed participants to suspend all aid to British government. 

The quit India movement of 1942 saw lots of activities in Muzaffarnagar also. Mr. Hardam Singh of Bherathru made the declaration of Independence. Lot of students of the district went to jails. But their enthusiasm was not weakened by the police torture. Mr. Keshav Gupta’s residence was the venue of the flag hoisting ceremony on the day of independence when India had ‘Tryst with Destiny'. Pt. Sunder Lal, Lala Hardayal, Shanti Narayan of Khatauli are some of the most famous names of intellectuals who were related to national movement. Apart from them there is an unending list of the persons who sacrificed their lives during the freedom struggle. Liyakat Ali Khan the first Prime Minister of Pakistan was from Muzaffarnagar. Thus we have tried to scan through the historical out lines of the district. From the period of Harrapan culture to present day Muzaffarnagar has been full of activities and always in the news.

AGRA, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: Agra Fort

Agra Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site located in Agra, India. The fort is also known as Lal Qila, Fort Rouge and Red Fort of Agra. Though, the principal structure was built by Akbar, many additions were made by his successors. The fascinating structure of Jahangiri Mahal built by Akbar for his Hindu queen Jodhabai was one of the earliest constructions illustrating change of fort from military structure to a palace. Divan-e-khas, Diwan-e-Aam, the Octagonal tower, Mina Masjid, Sheesh Mahal, Anguri Bagh are the main attractions within the fort complex. The forbidding exteriors of this fort hide an inner paradise.

Agra Fort built by Akbar in Red Sandstone when he was through with the consolidation of his power after accession to power in 1654, Agra Fort worked both as a military strategic point as well as the royal residence. Ever since Babur defeated and killed Ibrahin Lodi at Panipat in 1526, Agra played an important center of Mughal Empire it was in a ruined condition and Akbar decided to make it his capital and arrived in Agra in 1558 Akbar had it rebuilt with red sandstone. Architects laid the foundation and it was built with bricks in the inner core with sandstone on external surfaces. Some 1,444,000 builders worked on it for eight years, completing it in 1573.

At the end of his life, his son, Aurangzeb, in the fort, a punishment that might not seem so harsh, considering the luxury of the fort, imprisoned Shah Jahan. It is rumored that Shah Jahan died in Muasamman Burj, a tower with a marble balcony with an excellent view of the Taj Mahal.

The fort contains splendid palaces both in red sandstone and white marble built by two generations of prolific builders Akbar and later Jehangir and Shahjahan.

Brief History

Agra has a rich historical background, which is amply evident from the numerous historical monuments in and around the city. The earliest reference for Agra comes from the epical age, when Mahabharata refer Agra as Agravana. In the sources prior to this, Agra has been referred as Arya Griha or the abode of the Aryans. The first person who referred Agra by its modern name was Ptolemy. District Agra is a part of the twelve groves of Brij Mandal. During ancient period the area was known as Agarvan where Lord Krishna used to play with his companions. There are number of sayings about giving the name to this place. One tale is that the name was given after the Brakish nature of the soils of this region. It was saltpan known in Hindi as Agra. The name of district is after the name of the town.

The district finds mention in the ancient literature where district occupied an almost central position in the janapadas (states) of ancient Madhyadesh and was one of the most celebrated regions both culturally and historically. Agra has been a habited region since long before the advent of Muslims. The present area of the district was part of Gupta era (455-467 A.D.). About the beginning of sixth century after having occupied the north west frontier region and Punjab, the Hunas under their chief Toramana penetrated into Madhyadesh. Towards the close of seventh or beginning of eighth century, king Yashovarman of Kannauj rose power and became the lord of whole of northern India.During ninth century and greater part of tenth century probably the area of the present district was under the feudatories of Gujrar Pratihars. Towards the end of 1018 A.D. Mahmud Ghazni again invaded India with a hundred thousand horses raised in his own dominions and twenty thousand foot soldiers of fortune from several Central Asian countries. About 1196 A.D.Shihab-ud-din and Kutub-ud-din Aibak conquered the area of the present district. It was probably during the time of Alauddin Khilji (1296-1316) that region eventually came under the rule of the Sultans of Delhi.

Though the heritage of Agra city is linked with the Mughal dynasty, numerous other rulers also contributed to the rich past of this city. Modern Agra was founded by Sikandar Lodhi (Lodhi dynasty; Delhi Sultanate) in the 16th century. The area was under the sway of Sikandar Lodi during (1489-1511). He established his military Headquarters at Agra and founded the city of Agra in 1505. A fort was built during his reign and made Agra the capital of his kingdom in the 16th and early 17th century. Babar (founder of the Mughal dynasty) also stayed for sometime in Agra and introduced the concept of square Persian-styled gardens here.

Emperor Akbar built the Agra fort and Fatehpur Sikri near Agra. Fatehpur Sikri remained his capital for around fifteen years after which the city was left isolated in mysterious circumstances. Jahangir beautified Agra with palaces and gardens despite spending most of his time in Kashmir with which he was passionately attached. Agra came to its own when Shahjahan ascended to the throne of Mughal Empire. He marked the zenith of Mughal architecture, when he built the Taj in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. The seventh wonder of the world. Taj Mahal famous for architectural splendor of the mausoleum is a vivid reminder of the opulence of the legendary Mughal Empire. Its significance as a political center ended with the transfer of the capital to Delhi in 1634 by Shah Jahan.

In his later years, Shahjahan shifted his capital to the new city of Shahjahanabad in Delhi and ruled from there. Shahjahan was dethroned in 1658 by his son, Aurangzeb who imprisoned him in the Agra Fort. Aurangzeb shifted the capital back to Agra till his death. After the death of Aurangzeb, Mughal Empire could not touch its peak and many regional kingdoms emerged. After the Mughals, Marathas and Jats ruled the area and they also made changes in the administrative units which were constructed by Akbar and finally the British taking over the city.The Marathas were defeated by British in 1803 and Agra was made a revenue division in 1834. The boundaries areas and internal adjustments of the district underwent several changes during the year 1874, 1878 and 1879 British rule ended with rest of the country in 1947 and in 1989 a new district–Firozabad was formed out of this district.

GORAKHPUR, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: GORAKHNATH TEMPLE

The present city of Gorakhpur, is developing around ‘Gol Ghar’ expanding in two directions towards east and to the south-east while the old Gorakhpur contains the ‘mansrovar’ and ‘kauladah tanks’ and famous shrine of Gorakhnath. The temple of Gorakhnath is of undoubted antiquity which is said to have been rebuilt in the year 1896. The temple is rectangular in shape with a verandah around it supported by round pillars. This building is white washed with decorations in colours. The shrine inside the temple contains the ‘Gaddi’ of Gorakhnath on which rests his ‘kharaon’ (wooden chappals) and hand-bells. There is ‘Samadhi’ of Guru Gorakhnath in the temple which is situated on the Gorakhpur-Nautanwa road. It was the ‘tap-bhumi’ of Guru Gorakhnath and as per tradition the people visiting there with their unfulfilled desires specially on tuesday and offer ‘Khichadi’ with true worship, their keen desires get fulfilled. 

On ‘Makar-Sakranti’ a fair is held where devotees having faith gather from long distances too. Inside the premises of the temple there is a pond and by the side of it a 15 feet long idol of Bhima is lying there. It is believed that during Ramas Yagya of Pandavas, Bhima had come to invite the Guru Gorakhnath and after taking bath in the pond he had rested there. It is also said that the king of Nepal had no child and with his such ambition he had visited there and with the blessings of Guru Gorakhnath he could get a son. Now-a-days Gorakhnath society is managing a number of Intermediate, Degree, Polytechnic, Engineering Colleges besides Sanskrit Vidyalaya and Leprosy Sewa Ashram in Gorakhpur.

Brief History

The district bears its name and fame from renowned, ascetic 'Gorakshnath', who was an eminent profounder saint of 'Nath Sampradaya', a deity of great fame in Nepal. He is said to have founder the city of Gorakhpur. A famous shrine 'Gorakhnath' was built in his honour on the same spot where he practiced austerities.

In the ancient times the region was ruled by Iksvaku with his capital at Ayodhya. The monarch founded the star dynasty of Ksatriyas. Subsequently, the district was divided in a number of republics under the sovereignty of the kingdom of Kosala. The republics which had only a portion of their territory in the district, were the Sakyas of Kapilvastu (in Basti District) and the Mallar of Kushinagar and Para (in Deoria District). The state of Sakyas lay in the western part of the District by the sixth century B.C. These republics become independent entities with defined territories. They had organized government and wielded more or less sovereign power. Gautam Buddha of the Sakya class, a great religious teacher, exercised enormous spiritual influence on these republics and the people had great respect for him. In the middle of the fourth century BC. Maha Padma , the Nanda king of Magadh in order to overthrow the kingdom of Kosala, attached the district and annexed the territory comprising the republic of the Koliyas and Sakyas. In the beginning of the fourth century A.D., the region covered by the district fell within the central core of the empire of Chandra Gupta -I (320-325A.D.), whose political power was enhanced to a great extent by virtue of his marriage with the Licchavi princess, Kumardevi. In the post Gupta period this region fell in the domination of the Maukharis followed by Harsh of Kannauj. In the ninth century A.D. this district was dominated by the Gurjara-Pratikaras and formed part of the Sravasti Bhukti of their empire.

The Tharu King, Man Sen or Madan Singh (900-950A.D.) ruled over Gorakhpur city and the adjoining area. A large tank at Gorakhpur called Mansarover is ascribed to him and a smallar one called Kaulada to his wife, Kulawati. He was reputed to have immense wealth which induced Donwar Rajputs to invade his capital and oust him. There after they established themselves in the east of the Gorakhpur city constructed fort which was called Domingarh. The ruins of Domingarh are still found in the shape of a mound built of large thick and square bricks.

After the decline of Gurjara-Pratiharas Laksna Karna (1041-1042AD.) of Kalachuri dynasty of Tripuri who came to power, brought under his control almost the entire region covered by the present district of Gorakhpur. But his son and successor Yash Karna (1073-1120A.D.) was unable to check the process of disintegration. The defeat of Jaychandra (1170-1194A.D.) grandson of Govind Chandra, at the hands of Shahabud-din Ghuri in 1194, paralysed the Gahadvala power and brought to an end their dominance over the district. As a result, a number of small principalities held by Sarnet, Douwar, Kaushik, Rajputs, and Bhars came into existence in different parts of the district.

In the early medieval period the Gorakhpur region was passed nominally into the hold of Qutub-ud-din Aibak (1193) the Delhi Saltanat (1451-1488). It was in 1565 that the region drew attention of Akbar, when the Uzbegs under their leader Khan Zaman (Ali Quli Khan), the Governor of Jaunpur rose in revolt against the emperor. A Muslim garrison was stationed at Gorakhpur and for the first time the district become an integral part of the empire. After the defeat and death of Khan Zaman in 1567, the emperor bestowed his Jagirs in Jaunpur on Muin Khan and since then the town became a place of possessing a coppernint. On Akbar’s re-organization of the empire, Gorakhpur gave its name to one of the five Sirkars comprising the province of Avadh. The Gorakhpur Sirkars with 24 Mahals now in districts of Gorakhpur, Basti, Gonda and Azamgarh had an area of 2,44,283 bighas (3256 hectares) yielding 1,19,26,190 dons as revenue. 

In 1610 Jahangir (1605-1627) bestowed the chief of Gorakhpur on Afzal Khan, the Governor of Bihar, who made the district his residence in preference to the official capital at Patna. In the region of Shah Jahan (1628-1658) the district continued to be a part of the Subah of Avadh and Gorakhpur Sirkar coasted of 119 Mahals. About the 1680, Aurangzeb appointed Kazi Khalil-ul-Rehman as Chaclidar of Gorakhpur. At the end of the 17th century A.D prince Muazzam, afterwards known as Bahadur Shah came to Gorakhpur for hunting and to him is ascribed the Jama Masjid at Gorakhpur. In his honour a division newly carved out from the Sirkars of Gorakhpur and Saran was named Muazzamabad and by this little district of Gorakhpur is mentioned in all official records from this date to that of its cession in 1801. In the same year the arrears of subsidies, due under various treaties for the use of English troops had reached an amount which Nawab Saadat Ali Khan found himself quite unable to pay. To wipe off the debt, Saadat Ali Khan ceased Gorakhpur and other tracts to the East India Company by the treaty of 10th November, 1801. The condition of the district at the time of cession was very wretched. It is described as almost entirely without administration, overgrown with jungle, road less infested by robbers and in many places laid waste by the armed retainers of the principal landholders. Long before the cession the Gurkhas had taken advantage of the prevailing anarchy to augment their possessions in the plains.

During the freedom struggle (1857-58) the civil administration was re-established in the district. The commissionerships of Gorakhpur and Varanasi divisions were combined. The size of the district was however, too large to be administered as a single unit. Therefore, in 1865, a new district of Basti was formed with six Parganas of Gorakhpur along with the great part of Maghar and pargana of Binayakpur. In 1869 for the administration of the civil town of Gorakhpur, a municipality was setup. The district faced a severe famine in 1873-74. The Head Qatar of North Western Railways Division was established in the district on January 15th, 1885. The commissionership of Gorakhpur was, however, revived on April 1,1891.

The non co-operation movement of the congress had taken root in the district in 1920 and received a great impetus from Gandhi ji’s first visit to the district on 8 February,1921. In year 1923, political meeting and conferences were held in all parts of the district. Moti Lal Nehru, Jawahar Lal Nehru and Dr. Mahmud visited the district on several occasions between 1921 & 1926. It was in the Gorakhpur district jail that Ram Prasad ‘Bismil’ the freedom fighter convicted in the famous Kakori case, was hanged to death on December 18,1926.

Civil Disobedience Movement started in the district in 1930-34. Gandhi ji on his second visit to this district received a tumultuous ovation everywhere he went. His visit was commemorated by establishing district and tahsil congress committees actively supported by other bodies, which came into being at about the same time, like the youth Leauge, the Naujawan Dal, the Navyuwak Sewa Sangh, the Kisan Sabha etc. The activities of these bodies developed on an all-India pattern, starting with the boycott of foreign cloths and liquor, picketing of such shops and the cutting of today trees. During the salt Satyagraha Movement of 1930, Gorakhpur played an important part. In 1931, the people of the district participated in the Kisan movement which took the form of a protest against the oppression committed by the Zamindars. Rafi Ahmad Kidwai and Sampurn Nanad visited the district in 1935 and condemned the British tyranny. This was followed by the visit of certain other national leaders in 1940, prominent among whom being Govind Ballabh Pant and Jawahar Lal Nehru. The trial of Jawahar Lal Nehru Commenced in that very year in this district in which he was sentenced to rigorous imprisonment of four years. The district did not lag behind in the Quit India Movement of August, 1942. Almost everywhere in the district it started with Hartals, Protest meetings, processions and defying of prohibitory orders. Another important event took place at Doharia (In Sahjanwa Tehsil ) on 23rd August,1942. In response to the famous Quit India Movement of 1942, a meeting was held to register its protest against the British Government at Doharia but the latter responded with unprovoked firing, killing nine and injuring hundreds. A Shaheed Smarak , in their memory, stands there which still today keeps their memory alive.

Gorakhpur rose to great eminence due to the historic 'CHAURI CHAURA' incident of 4th Feb., 1922, which was a turning -point in the history of India's freedom struggle. Enraged at the inhuman barbaric atrocities of the police, the volunteers burnt down the Chauri-Chaura Police Station, killing nineteen policemen at the premises. With this violence, Mahatma Gandhi withdrew the Non-Cooperation Movement launched in 1920. District got independence with other parts of India on August 1947.

Gorakhpur is also identified with the Gita Press, the world famous publisher of the Hindu religious books. The most famous publication is 'KALYAN' magazine. All 18 parts of Shree Bhagwat Gita is written on its marble-walls. Other wall hangings and paintings reveal the events of life of Lord Ram and Krishna. The Gita Press is fore-front in dissemination of religious and spiritual consciousness across the country.

BAREILLY, Uttar Pradesh

Main Attraction: Surma

Manufacturing of ‘Surma’ (a grinded grey and black medicated powder) for beautifying the human eyes and to medicate them, had been an important industry in the city for which the district Bareilly had been famous all over the world. ‘Surma’is basically a powder of antimony mixed with grinded pearls and other ingredients including a rare mineral imported from Afghanistan which was used in earlier times,. Surma making industry is very old one in the city, originally formulated by Syed Hashim, hence the ‘Surma’ is famous as Hashmi surma. Hashmi surma has been known for its brand, produced by a particular family, which possesses an old ancestral small shop located at the crossing of the main old bazar of the city, called ‘Kutubkhana’. Various qualities of Surma depending upon the needs and demands of the users for eye ailments or for beautification of eyes are produced. Keeping in view the popularity of the product, manufacturers were encouraged to expand the market and now a days nearly fifty units are engaged in the manufacturing of the product which fulfill the demand from all over the country and abroad.

Aside from the dusty powder form of the Surma, another form of it, in the kind of black paste termed as ‘Kajal’ is also manufactured which is prepared by adding some medicinal herb juices. This paste is generally applied on the eyelets with ladies-finger only. Mostly it is used in night at sleeping time which in turn cleans the eyes throughout the night and keeps the eyes and eyesight healthy. In rural areas of the country, it has a very potential market.

Brief History

The early history of the region covered by the present district of Bareilly is not without interest. It once formed part of the ancient country of Panchala, which is said to have extended from the foot of the Himalayas in the north to the river Chambal in south. Later, when Panchala was divided into north Panchala and south Panchala (west Ganga is line of demarcation), the Bareilly district was included in the former and it has the distinction of having possessed Ahichchhatra or Chhatravati the capital of that kingdom, which was one of the most celebrated places in ancient India and is identified with the ruined site of this name, which is outside the village of Ramnagar in Paragana Siraulli of tahsil Aonla. Like other prominent ancient cities of U.P., Ahichchhatra was also a great centre, simultaneously of Hinduism, Jainism and Budhism with the traditions of each of which it has been intimately associated and which even now is held by Jains as a sacred place of pilgrimage.

The district Bareilly also known as Bans Bareilly forms a part of Rohilkhand division. District headquarter city is also the Divisional headquarters and it came into existence about the beginning of the sixteenth century. The district was founded in 1537 by Bans Deo and Barel Deo, the two sons of Jagat Singh Katchriya, who had founded the village of Jagatpur, which is still the name of a locality in the old city. Another, version recounts that Jagat Singh was a Barhela ‘ Rajput who had two sons Ban Deo and Nag Deo, the former having built a fort in 1550 which was named ‘Bans Bareilly’ and latter founding the city, the remains of the fort still being traceable in the locality known as Kot (meaning fort). The city was first mentioned by the historian Budayuni, who wrote that Husain Quli Khan was appointed the governor of "Bareilly and Sambhal" in 1568. The divisions and revenue of the district "being fixed by Todar Mal" were recorded by Abul Fazl in 1596. The foundation of the modern city of Bareilly was laid by Mukrand Rai in 1657. In 1658, Bareilly became the headquarters of the province of Budaun.

In the time of Akbar, the district was a part of the Subah of Delhi and was divided into Sirkars of Sambhal and Badaun, the former comprising the Paraganas of Balai, Kabar Sarsawan and Hatamana and latter those of Aonla, Barsir, and part of Sanha, Bareilly and Ajaon. In 1623 two Afghan brothers from the Barech tribe (Shah Alam and Husain Khan) settled in the region, bringing other Pashtun settlers. With the immigration of Daud Khan, an Afghan slave originally from Roh, Afghanistan, the Afghan Rohillas rose to prominence. His adopted son, Ali Muhammad Khan, established his headquarters in the region and was named governor of Kateher by Aurangzeb; the region was known as "the land of the Ruhelas". After the fall of the Mughal Empire, many Pathans migrated from Rohilkhand. Bareilly (like other cities in Uttar Pradesh) experienced economic stagnation and poverty, leading to the migration of Rohilla Muslim Pathans to Suriname and Guyana as indentured labour.

Ali Muhammad Khan (1737–1749), grandson of Shah Alam, captured the city of Bareilly and made it his capital; he later united theRohillas in the State of Rohilkhand from 1707 to 1720. He rose to power, and was confirmed to own the lands he had seized. The emperor made him a nawab in 1737 and governor of Rohilkhand in 1740. Ali Muhammad was succeeded by Hafiz Rahmat Khan Barech (1749–1774), whom he appointed regent of Rohilkhand on his deathbed. Barech extended the power of Rohilkhand from Almora in the north to Etawah in the southwest. Under him Rohilla power continued to grow, although the area was torn by strife among rival chieftains and struggles with neighbouring powers (particularly the Nawab Vazirs of Awadh, the Bangash Nawabs and the Marathas). Under Barech at the 1761 Third Battle of Panipat, Rohilkhand blocked the expansion of the Maratha Empire into northern India. In 1772 it was invaded by the Marathas, repulsing the invasion with the aid of the Nawab of Awadh. After the war, Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula demanded payment for the nawabs' help from Barech. When his demand was refused, the nawab joined the British (under Governor Warren Hastings and his Commander-in-Chief, Alexander Champion) to invade Rohilkhand. The combined forces of Daula and the Company defeated Barech (who was killed in battle at Miranpur Katra, ending Rohilla rule) in 1774. Rohilkhand was handed over to Daula, and from 1774 to 1800 the province was ruled by the Nawab of Awadh. In 1801, when Rohilkhand came under British rule, Bareilly was one of the two districts into which it was divided, Moradabad being the other.

After the Rohilla War, the change in the power structure increased discontent throughout the district. Increased taxation from 1812 to 1814 increased resentment of the British: "Business stood still, shops were shut and multitudes assembled near the courthouse to petition for the abolition of the tax." The Magistrate Dembleton, already unpopular, ordered the assessment to be made by a Kotwal. A skirmish between rebels and the sepoys (under Captain Cunningham) cost 300–400 lives. In 1818, Glyn was posted as Acting Judge and Magistrate of Bareilly and the Joint Magistrate of Bulundshahr. Glyn asked Ghulam Yahya to write an account of "craftsmen, the names of tools of manufacture and production and their dress and manners". The most popular trades in and around Bareilly during the 1820s were manufacturing glass, jewellery, glass and lac bangles and gold and silver thread, crimping, bean drying, wire drawing, charpoy weaving, keeping a grocer's shop and selling kebabs. Bareilly was a centre of the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The rebellion began as a mutiny of native soldiers (sepoys), employed by the British East India Company's army, against race and religion-based injustices and inequities on 10 May 1857 in Meerut. It expanded into other mutinies and civilian rebellions, primarily in the major north-central Indian River valleys; local episodes extended northwest to Peshawar (on the northwest frontier with Afghanistan) and southeast (beyond Delhi). There were riots in many parts of Uttar Pradesh, and Muslims in Bareilly, Bijnor and Moradabad called for the revival of a Muslim Kingdom. The Rohillas actively opposed the British, but were disarmed. Khan Bahadur Khan Rohilla, grandson of Hafiz Rahmat Khan, formed his own government in Bareilly in 1857 and a widespread popular revolt in Awadh, Bundelkhand and Rohilkhand took place. In 1857, Khan Bhadur Khan issued silver coins from Bareilly as an independent ruler. When the rebellion failed, Bareilly was subjugated. Khan Bahadur Khan was sentenced to death, and hanged in the police station on 24 February 1860.

The Wahabi movement was founded by Saiyid Ahmad (of Rai Bareilly) who initiated the project of reviving Muslim rules in India by lighting the Sikhs and the British. On May 29, Naubat Ram, a prominent citizen of Bareilly sent a secret message to the authorities that there would be a rising in the town after the Friday prayer of the Muslims. The commandant of the irregular cavalry stationed at Bareilly called them out and they moved off in direction of Naini Tal but the bulk galloped back to join the fighters who after releasing all the prisoners in the jail, proclaimed Khan Bahadur King. On the May 5th 1921, a big rally was held in town area of Bareilly. In 1929 a political conference was held at Lakhanganj outside the city of the Bareilly –under the president ship of Saifudeen Kichalu. In 1936 provincial political conference of the congress was held at Bareilly under president ship Achary Narendra Deo. It was address by Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru. In 1942 ‘Quit India movement’ was launched on August 9 in Bareilly. There was widespread agitation and congress leaders were arrested and detained in jails. In freedom struggle the role of the district Bareilly was prominent.