SHIMLA, Himachal Pradesh

Main Attraction: An ode to the queen of hills

Shimla, Simla of the Raj, has an interesting past. This Shimmering jewel developed from small hill village named ‘ Shumlah or Shymla’. Captain Aledander Gerard wrote in 1817, “Simla” middling. Sized village where a fakir is stationed to give water to travellers. “This is said to be the first definite mention of Simla.The land where Shimla now stands was acquired form Maharaja of Patiala and Rana of Keonthal for the British government. “It is impossible that Shimla and its sublimity can ever be effaced from our minds”, wrote Sir William Loyd. 

Gradually the town rose in importance and by 1876 it had hundreds of houses built of wood and stone. These were “dispersed amongst the forests of oaks and firs along the crests of different mountain regions”.With the struggle for independence gaining momentum Shimla saw hectic political activity. All prominent national leaders including Mahatma Gandhi, JawaharLal Nehru, LalaLajpatRai, Sardar Patel and PanditMadan Mohan Malviya visited Shimla during this time.

Today Shimla is a popular tourist destination. It has a unique appeal which sets Shimla apart. The Summer Festival of Shimla has over the years acquired a distinct character of its own. Just like the balls and fete at Annadale ground during the Raj. Shimla summer Festival celebrates the spirit of this lively city. The famous artists of music industry like legendary Mohammad Rafi, Kishor Kumar, Manna Dey, Mukesh have entertained audience at the Ridge. It is a heartfelt desire of all the artists associated with music industry to perform at the Ridge, Shimla

Brief History

The present Shimla district comprises of the 19 small erstwhile Shimla Hill States which were merged with Himachal Pradesh in 1948 and constituted part of theMahasu district. Apart from these states, the hilly areas of erstwhile Patiala State and areas ofKotkhai, Kotgarh, Shimla town and Jutogh Cantonment of the provincial government were also included in the district after independence at different stages. 

Almost all the erstwhile princely states of Shimla district were subjected to the Gorkha invasions during the beginning of the 19th Century and thery were free in the year 1815 when the Gorkha were defeated by the Britishers and driven out to Nepal. Consequently the areas belonging to the respective rulers were restored to them under specific terms. As all the states were of small size both in terms of area and population, these remained under the direct control of the then Superintendent of Punjab Hills States. These rulers were free in the internal affairs of their states. Almost all the states were founded by the adventurists from plains after the 8th century A.D.

Shimla district derives its name from Shimla Town which was once a very small village inhabited by the Charcoal manufactures. The panoramic view commanded by the place attracted the attention of theBritishers who had set their hold on the country and gradually the village was developed considerably. The surroundings were equally developed from military point of view. The climatic conditions which resembled with those prevailing in the native country of the Britishers aroused their ambition to make it summer capital. 

It became the formal seat of the summer capital of the Government of India in 1864 when Lord Lawrance came to the town along with the members of Supreme Council and all the public offices. The Punjab Government first went to Shimla in 1871 but from 1876 onwards it remained their summer capital till 1947 and after the partition of Punjab it served the headquarters of Punjab Govt. till its offices moved to Chandigarh. In the 19th century the place became very famous due to the summer capital of the Government of India.

In other version as mentioned in the Book namely “Simla Past and Present” by Mr. Long Whom and “Shimla Guide of 1870” by Mr. W.H. Garey, Shimla derives its name from “Shyeamalay” the house built of blue slate erected by a Fakir on Jakkhoo, the first nucleus of the settlement. But this derivation is regarded by many people as fanciful and far- fetched and probably Shimlah or ‘Shumlah’ as pronounced by the hill people, is the actual word from which the station takes its present name, Shimla, a middle sized village where a Fakir used to give water to travellers. 

The original village of Shimla was situated on the ground lying to the east of the then Secretariat building above the road leading to the Ripon Hospital and immediately below the Roman Catholic Chapel, S.Michael’s school and the cantt. House and the detached portion inhabited entirely by Charcoal burners just over the spur still further east, immediately below the spot where the Muhammadan Masque now stands.

According to the gazettierof 1904, the land forming the Pargana and the present station of Shimla originally belongedcojointly to the Maharaja of Patiala and Rana of Keonthal. As early as 1824 European gentleman, Chiefely arrived from the plains, had, with permission of these Chiefs established themselves in this locality, building houses on sites granted to them rent free and with no other stipulation except that they should refrain from the slaughter of Kite, and from the felling of trees unless with previous permission of the proprietors of the land. Gradually the place became favourably known as aSanitorium and in 1830 the Government directed that negotiations should be entered into with the Chiefs of Patiala and Keonthalfor the acquisition of land; sufficient to form a station. Accordingly Major Kennedy, the political Agent, negotiated an exchange with the Rana of Keonthal for this portion of the Shimla hills, comprising the 12 villages noted as below and yielding an estimated annual Revenue of Rupees 987 making over to the Rana of the Pargana: 1. Panjar, 2. Phagli, 3. Bammoloi, 4. Kanhlog, 5. Sabarrbar, 6. Dalhi, 7. Pagaway, 8. Kalhian, 9. Dabaria, 10. Kiar, 11. Dhar, 12. Khilini.

The ParganaRawin yielding annual revenue of Rs. 1289 which on the first conquest of these hills had been retained by Britishers as a good military position. A portion of the retained Pargana of Bharauli, consisting of the three villages named Dhanoti, Kalwan and Dharoi was at the same time made over to the Maharaja of Patiala in exchange for the portion of Shimla included in the territory which consisted of four villages named Kaithu, Baghog, Chuog and Aindari yielding estimated Revenue of

Rs. 245 per annum.

Shimla became the part of Himachal Pradesh on 1st November, 1966 due to reorganisation of Punjab state. 

People

The population of the district mainly consists of Hindus followed by Sikhs, Mohammedans while other religions like Christians, Jains and Buddhists constitute microscopic minority. The Hindus population is chiefly composed of Brahmins, Rajputs and Kanets. The other section of the people consists of Kolis, Lohars, Chamars, Badhis, Chanals, Julaha, Dumne and Rehars which are Scheduled Castes. Apart from these people, Gujjars’s community is also found in this district and they resides in high ridges/hills alongwith their animals like buffaloes, cows w.e.f. April to August. In winter season they start to come down from high hills and migrate to lower areas of Uttaranchal and stay there up to middle of March every year. This is also called a nomadic Scheduled Tribes community.

The Brahmins are of two classes Sasani and Dharebar. The Sasanis are generally muafidars and are of distinctly higher class than the Dharebar. They would marry Dharebar women but will not give their own daughter in marriage to them. The other group of Brahmins are Bhat, Panda, Acharaj and Mahacharaj or Bedwa.

The Rajputs form rather a ruling class than a caste and comprises of the families of the erstwhile hill chiefs. One category of the Rajputs who were the rulers of the yester years do not give their daughters in marriage to the Khash, Mian or Other Rajputs. The other categories of Thakur and MianRajputs hesitate to give their daughters to the Khash or Kanet. The Khash or Kanets are mainly agriculturists.

In Scheduled Castes Community, people of Koli caste are in majority among others. In general reality people of all communities in the district are god fearing and they mostly believe on its local ‘Devta’. In other side with the passage of time, spread of education and changed economic condition, the rigid customs of the past are fading away gradually. The different class of the Scheduled Castes do not enter into matrimonial alliances with each other. The Christians are of both the type of Protestants and Roman Catholics

Language

Language of district people is mainly Pahari consisting of various dialects which is spoken by the villagers except in urban areas. With the spread of communication, education and increase in the literacy rate among the masses of district, a major portion of the people in rural and urban areas are turning to Hindi instead of Pahari. However people of district can speak in Hindi or Pahari frequently.

Food

The staple food of the villagers generally consists of maize, rice and wheat is taken mostly in summer and there after occasionally. In addition, pulses like Urd, Lobia, Moong, Gram and Kolth are used almost daily. Maize which is the main cereals crop grown is favourite and is taken round the year. The people in the villages have four meals a day. Morning meal (Nawari) consists of wheat or maize bread taken either with lassi or tea. The mid-day meal (Chaili or Dopari) consists of maize or wheat chappaties taken with vegetable or dal or curry. In the evening, the morning menu is repeated. 

In the night (Bayali), the rice is taken with dal, with passage of time, now the people of district are taking their meals three times instead of four times. In the morning meal (Nawari) they took Prantha with tea and midday meal (Dopari) consists of Maize or wheat chappaties taken with vegetables or dal or curry (Khairu) etc. At night in the dinner the rice is generally taken with dal (Rajmah, Rongi) People are also very fond of meat with rice and those who can afford they like it in the dinner.

Dress

Cotton as well as woollen clothes are worn by the people. In winter season mostly woollen clothes are used by the people to keep up the body warm because the most of the area of the district falls in cold zone. Ordinary clothes for men consist of cotton Khadior mill made shirt. ‘Pyjama’, cap and jacket. The dress of the women is ‘salwar’, ‘kameej’ and coloured head geer called as Dhattu is commonly used. Jacket is also worn by them in the upper part of the district. 

The traditional dress of men for attending some function consist of black woollen ‘pyjama’, coat, and

‘bushehari’ cap with a coloured band. ‘Loia’ is also put on by most of the people. The women, however, wear ‘Pakhati’, ‘Rezta’, ‘Kameej’, ‘Suttan’ and ‘Dhattu’. Women of the higher altitudes of Rampur tehsil put on woollen cap and ‘Giddi’. The typical dress of the women of Theog, Kotkhai, Jubbal, Rohru and Chaupal tehsil is ‘Salwar’, ‘Kameej’, ‘Sadri’ with yellow or red coloured ‘Dhattu’ as the head gear

Housing and Furniture

Now the district has been made considerable high economic development in last decade w.e.f. 1991-2000 and most of the people have changed their mud houses to pucca houses by adopting new system of construction i.e. concrete pillars, G.I. Sheets for roofing with separate kitchen, cow sheds, bathroom and flush latrine etc. At present people of district are very much aware of sanitation which is necessary for good health. Only in remote areas of the district is have the old system of housing pattern like the ground floor is mainly used for tending cattles and the first floor is used for dwelling & kitchen purposes. The household furniture generally consists of cots and domestically woven mates (mandri/bina) of rice stalks. 

Wooden boxes are being used for keeping valuables and clothes, chairs, tables and modern items of furniture. The olden items are also rarely seen in the villages. However with the spread of education and increase in the standard of living, people have started by keeping modern furniture in their houses like chairs, sofa sets, dressing tables, steel almirahs, bed boxes, deck (music system) coloured television with dish antenna etc. Utensils generally in use are made of brass, bronze, steel and aluminium. Earthen wares of the past have almost been completely replaced by pressure cooker, ‘patila’, glass, ‘lota’, ‘thali’ (plate). In the district 100 per cent of the inhabited villages have the facility of electricity and power. So the people are availing this facility by using table lamp, heater, press, fan, fridge, washing machines. Now the people of district also have the facilities of LPG connection, which is decreasing the pressure on fire wood.

Religion

The religion of the district according to the intelligent hillman is considered as a Hindu of approximate orthodoxy. The popular religion of this district is a primitive form of animism or demon worship which has been overlaid with a thin veneer of Hinduism. Every village has a diety of its own and many have more than one. The district is having number of shrines and temples. Durga Kali temple at Sarahan, Hat Koti, Tara Devi, Shali andSeoni are quite famous. The famous temple of Mahasu at Gijari in tehsil Theog is also unique in architecture. There are many temples where the idols of Shiva, Rama, Krishna and Durga are worshipped simultaneously. 

The temple priests are generally Brahmins. All the ceremonies, rites and rituals are performed according to religion. The religious assignmentsin several respects are most interesting because of their variety and throw the light on the influence of the Brahmins on these rites and rituals. The endowment of the village gods presents the features commonly found in the hills. The temple image almost invariably consist of pind or linga of stone, this probably represents the primitive image. Now a day, the most important outward and visible symbol of the god is his Rath, a term which may be translated as ark, palanquin or litter

MANDI, Himachal Pradesh

Main Attraction: Mandi Town

The name "Mandi" (and the former name "Mandav Nagar") has its roots from Great Sage Rishi 'Mandav' who prayed in this area, and the rocks turned black due to the severity of his penance. Alternatively, the name may have been derived from the common word mandi which means "market” in Hindi. It may possibly be connected with the Sanskrit root mandaptika, meaning "an open hall or shed," District of Mandi was formed with the merger of two princely states, Mandi State and Suket State, on 15 April 1948, when the State of Himachal Pradesh was established. Until the mid 20th century, Mandi was on the trade route between Yarkant County and Ladakh to Hoshiarpur and the Indian plains, served as commercial hub and trade centre. Other attraction point in the city is Sunken Garden, which is situated on the banks of the Beas River, was earlier a garbage dump and a rundown place during the reign of Raja Sidh Sen of Mandi. It is the same site where Raja Sidh Sen killed his son-in-law Raja Prithi of Bhangal. It was initially a lake and was later transformed into a garden by Raja Joginder Sen. This garden also has a clock tower.

Brief History

Mandi district was formed by the amalgamation of the erstwhile princely states of Mandi and Suket on the formation of Himachal Pradesh on 15th April, 1948. Dr. J. Hutchinson and Dr. Vogel have accounted in the political history of the states that like most of the other hill states, Mandi takes its names from its capital which is situated on the left bank of the Beas. Mandi is a Hindi word, meaning market and it may possibly be connected with the Sanskrit word ‘mandapika’ meaning an open hall or shed and might have been derived from Sanskrit root ‘mand’ meaning to adorn or distribute. If a conjecture as to origin of the name may be offered, it probably took its rise from fact that in ancient times, as at the present day, the place was a centre of trade on the main route from Yarkand and Ladakh to Hoshiarpur and the plains. 

Another belief is that Mandi was named after a Rishi Mandvya. He is reported to have performed Tapasya on a rock called “Koleera” which is on the bank of river Beas near Padal. The earliest mention of the Mandi is on the inscription at Triloknath temple in old Mandi, which is dated in the year 2264 of the Kaliyuga era and the Saka year 1442 corresponding to AD 1520. Mandi is known by the name of Zahor among the Tibetan. It has an interesting association with the great Buddhist teacher and missionary, Padma Sambhava (AD 750-800), for it was from Zahor or Mandi that he went at the request of the Tibetan King Srongld btzen, to preach the doctrines of Buddhism in Tibet. Pandit Hira Nand Shastri states that in his lamaist representations, Padma sambhava appears in the ancient Mandi garb and the special head dress worn by him is still called Zahorma.

The early history of Mandi district is similar to that of other parts of the hills. The whole tract was under the control of numerous petty barons bearing the title of Rana or Thakur, the Rana being Kshatriya and Thakurs of some lower castes and the vernacular history gives a graphic account of their subjection by the early Rajas. As in the case of many of other Hill States, Sir Alexander Cunningham was the first to institute enquiries in to the history of Mandi and Suket royal families and the results of his researches are to be found in the Report of the Archaeological Survey-2. A very little material of a historical character in addition to the Vanshavali or genealogical roll of the Rajas is available.

The chiefs of Mandi, Suket, Keonthal and Kashtwar are said to be from a common ancestor of the Chandravanshi line of Rajputs of Sen dynasty of Bengal and they claim their descent from the Pandavas of Mahabharta. Bahu Sen, the younger brother of Sahu Sen, a chief of Suket established an independent territory for himself and was recognized as a Rana or local chief. Karanchena Sen was the tenth descendant from Bahu Sen and his Rani was the daughter of Rana of Seokot. Being an ambitious ruler he subdued the Ranas of Bans, Neru and Baggi, Thachi and forced them to pay tributes to him. The subdued Ranas appealed to the Kullu chief and requested for his help. In the struggle, Karanchena Sen fell and his wife had to flee for her life. In her flight she gave birth to a male child in the jungle and the Rani alongwith the child were taken to the Rana of Seokot. Her son subsequently acquired the name of Ban Sen and the Rana of Seokot being without a male issue adopted him as his successor. Thus, Ban Sen become the chief of Seokot. Ban Sen began to enlarge his territory and built his residence at Bhiu on the right bank of the Beas about 3 kms. from the present Mandi town. He died about 1300 AD. He was succeeded by his son Kalyan Sen who built a palace at Batahuli on the right bank of the river Beas which remained capital of Mandi state till the present Mandi town was established. He was succeeded by Hira Sen and the consolidation of the territory was completed under Ajber Sen, the nineteenth in descendant from Bahu Sen about 1500AD. He was considered as an able and benevolent ruler. He founded the present Mandi town and shifted his capital to this place. The temple of Bhutnath in the heart of the town was constructed during his reign and that of Triloknath by the inspiration of his queen Surat Rani or Sultana Devi. The Ranas of Kamlah and Kalar were subjugated by him and Chattar Sen, his son built a fort in Kalar called Lakargarh. Most of the Ranas of the adjoining areas accepted the supremacy of Mandi and were subjected to pay tributaries in cash and kind. He was succeeded by Chhatar Sen followed by Sahib Sen. With the initiative of Rani of Sahib Sen, the ferry on the Beas between Batahuli and Mandi and drinking water fountains were constructed along the main roads. Sahib Sen invaded the Rana of Drang and acquired the salt mines. It is said that the area known as Seraj Kullu became the part of Mandi when Raja Jagat Singh of Kullu with the assistance of Mandi defeated the Raja of Laksari.

Narayan Sen was a son of Sahib Sen and succeeded him in 1575AD. Further extension of territory were made during his reign and Ranas of Ner, Pandoh and Chuhar were subdued and seven garhs illaguas of Chuhar and five of Pandoh were annexed to the State. He built the fort of Naraingarh and annexed a large portion of Suket by fixing the boundary at Balh and Lohara. He was succeeded by Keshav Sen in 1595 AD. Mandi came under the influence of Mughals during the reign of Keshav Sen but the Mughals did not interfere in the internal matters of the state. The Mughal emperor was acknowledged by payment of annual tribute and furnishing a contingent for military expeditions. The ‘satli pillars’ of Mandi Rajas and their families locally known as Barsetas still stand on the left bank of Suketi Nallah. He was succeeded by his son Hira Sen in 1623 AD who further extended the territorial limits of the state. He was succeeded by Surya Sen or Suraj Sen in 1637 AD. He was an ambitious chief, but his efforts to extend his territory did not materialize and rather brought disaster to the state. 

The Mughal supremacy had been fully established and Mandi like other hill states became a tributary to the Mughal Empire. During his time, the state suffered territorial losses to Kullu and Guler chiefs and state was sacked. He was succeeded by his younger brother Shyam Sen who had annexed Lohara illaqas to Mandi and struggled to gain the possession of much of the territory, which had been lost to the various rulers during the time of Suraj Sen. Suraj Sen was succeeded by Gaur Sen in 1679. With the assistance of the ruler of Bilaspur, he conquered and annexed the areas of Dhayara, Bira and Patri from Suket. He was succeeded by Sidh Sen in 1684 who was known for his valour. He annexed good number of territories to the state from Banaghal, Suket and Kullu. The revenue system introduced by him remains enforce in the state till the regular settlement in 1917. He also introduced the system of advancing state loans to the private persons. The areas of Nachan, Hatli, and Lad were acquired from Suket by conquest in 1688 and he also captured the forts of Danesargarh and Sarakpur. Shivpur was also recovered and Raipur and Madhopur belonging to Suket were annexed. He was succeeded by Shamsher Sen, the son of Shiv Jawala Sen. The successive rulers of Mandi were Surma Sen, Ishwari Sen, Zalam Sen, Balbir Sen and Bijay Sen.

William Moorcroft was the first European to visit Mandi in March,1820 during the reign of Ishwari Sen. Raja Balbir sen was twenty two years of age at the time of his succession and two months afterwards Mandi was visited by Mr Vigne in 1839 AD in the course of his journey through the hills. In June, 1840 Sikh expedition under General Ventura was sent to Mandi and General sent a demand for immediate payment of certain arrears of tribute which formed the ostensible excuse for the expedition. This demand was at once compiled with before the first Sikh war. Balbir sen had been in secret communication with Mr Erskine, Superintendent of Hill states with a view to securing British protection and though compelled to send a contingent of 300 men to Sikh army for the compaign on the Satluj, yet his sympathies were with the British.

Immediately after the battle of Sobraon, he and the Raja of Suket sent confidential agent named Sibu Pandit to Mr Erskine, tendering their allegiance to British Government and requesting an interview. This was readily granted and on 21st Februry, 1846 the two chiefs visited Mr Erskine at Bilaspur and gave in their allegiance in person. But the Raja did not wait for the conclusion of the war before attempting to free his country. He boldly attacked the Sikh garrison in the state and captured all the forts except kamlah which did not surrender till the war was over. On 9th March 1846, a treaty was concluded between the British and the Sikh whereby among other provisions, the whole of the Doab between the Satluj and Beas was ceded in perpetuity to Government. Mandi and Suket being within the ceded territory came directly under British Control and were placed in charge of the Commissioner of Jalandhar. Lord Lowrence, then Commissioner of Jalandhar and Political Agent of the hill states visited Mandi on his way to Kullu in the autumn of 1846 and advised the Raja to build roads in the state. Mr Barnes, the first Deputy Commissioner of Kangra also settled the boundaries between Mandi, Suket and Kangra.

Raja Balbir sen died on 26th January, 1851 leaving three sons, Bijai Sen, Pardhan Singh and Man Singh. Bijai Sen was only four years old. Wazir Gosaon was in office till 1859 when Raja Bijai Sen attained the age of thirteen and he was married to the grand daughter of the Raja of Dalarpur and soon afterwards to a niece of the Raja of Guler. During the time of Bijai Sen, Lord Elgin, the first Viceroy of India made a tour in the hills and on his way from Kullu he halted at Badhwani, Jhatingri and Drang falling in the Mandi state. Raja accompanied by queen mother had an interview with the Viceroy at Darang. In 1864, the government granted the Raja a Salute of 11 guns. The Raja made a grant of one lacs rupees for public utility services in the state when he acquired the power of a ruler. A school, hospital and post office were opened in Mandi and mule road from Baijnath to Sultanpur in Kullu over the Bubu pass and sarais and traveller’s bunglows along the lines of the road from Kangra valley through Mandi towards Kullu and Shimla were constructed. The boundaries between Mandi and Suket on the Hatli side was also finally settled by the Commissioner of Jalandhar, in 1877. The Victoria suspension bridge over the Beas river at Mandi was constructed in 1881. A new road from Mandi to Kullu via Duchi Pass with a suspension bridge over the river Uhl was commissioned in addition to a cart road from Baijnath to Mandi and a road from Mandi to Secundra. 

During his time, guidelines for the functioning of the courts were issued and implemented. The jurisdiction of Civil and Criminal courts were clearly defined and classified. The rules for the hearing of the appeals and revisions were modified and the period of limitation was also fixed. In addition, the rights of the agriculturists in their forests were clearly defined and the rules were framed to regulate them. The iron suspension bridge over the Suketi Nallah near Mandi was opened during his time. Bijai Sen left no direct heir and in 1897 Bhiwani Sen was recognized as his heir and he succeeded him in 1903 and died in 1912 without leaving no direct heir to succeed him. In order to devise a uniform pattern of land revenue and a satisfactory solution of the question of the “Begar”, an Indian Civil Service officer Mr C.C. Garbette was at the request of the Raja lent to the Darbar as settlement officer in 1911. Mr Garbatte was obliged to go on sick leave in the following October and was relieved by Mr G. Walker I.C.S. These change were followed soon after the death of Raja Bhiwani Sen. After some delay, Mian Joginder Sen the nearest natural male relative of the deceased Raja was selected by Government and was formally installed as Raja Joginder Sen by Sir Louis Dane, K.C.S.I. Lieutenant Governor of the Punjab on 28th April, 1913. Joginder Sen was invested with full powers of a ruling chief in February 1925. During the period of his minority, Mandi remained under the management of British officer and number of departments were overhauled and recognized. 

A regular settlement was carried out between 1911-1917. The forests were placed under efficient control by carrying out a forest settlement and a working plan for the future exploitation of the state forests under Mr H. L.Wright an officer of Indian Forest Department from May 1914 to November 1917. In Novembr, 1921 the political control of the state was transferred from the Punjab government to the Government of India in the political department. During the time of Joginder Sen, the Mandi Hydro Electric Scheme was inaugurated in 1927. After independence, the state was merged in the newly formed state of Himachal Pradesh.

Sir A. Cunningham was the first to draw attention to the ‘Vanshavali’ of the ruling family of Suket in his paper on the history of Mandi in the Reports of the Archaeological survey. According to him, the foundation of Suket was laid at an early period (AD765). More recently a vernacular history of the state has been published by Munshi Hardiyal singh of Kangra, who acted for some time, as first Tahsildar and later as Superintendent of the State. It is called Tawarikh-I-Riyasat-Hai-Kohistan-Punjab. There are also references to Suket in the records of Mandi and Kullu as well as other states, which help to elucidate events. Suket does not seem to be referred to in the Raja Tarangini and only once in AD 1388 by any of the Mohammedan historians. Like Mandi state, the early history of Suket is also associated with the rulers of Sen dynasty.

According to the available records, Vira or Bir Singh (Bir Sen) on his migration from Bengal alongwith his forces crossed the river Satluj at Juiri fery in 765 AD and started the conquest of the area and he settled at Kunnudhar. He attacked the area of Kothidehr, and seized the area of Nanj, Salalu, Belu and Thanamagra and built forts at Kaun and Magra. The Thakurs of Kandikot and Saruhi surrendered before Bir Sen and he built a fort at Pangana. He conquered the fort of Birkot on the borders of Kumharsain. After the conquest of Seraj area of Kullu, Bir Sen captured Pandoh and Nachni alongwith the various forts etc. After subduing the northern part of the state, he turned westward towards Balh illaquas and advanced as far as Secundra-Ki-dhar. The Rana of Hatli was defeated by him and the boundary with Kangra was fixed by constructing a fort on the Sir Khund. Bir Sen was succeeded by his son Dhir Sen whose reign was short. In 1240 AD, Madan sen, one of the successors of Bir sen was a strong ruler and he extended the areas of the state.

Under Madan Sen’s regime, Suket reached the highest of its prosperity and power. He shifted the capital of state from Pangna to Lohara in the plains of Balh. The decline of the state was started with his death. In 1663 AD, Jeet Sen was installed Raja. It is said that Jeet Sen lost every battle he fought. During his regime, Mandi annexed Balh area as far as Suketi Nallah. Jeet Sen died childless and he was succeeded by Garur Sen. He founded Sundarnagar on the small plain three Kilometres south of Naggar and his wife constructed the Suraj Kund temple. Bikram Sen became the Raja of Suket in 1748 AD and his reign was covered by a period of great political importance in Punjab. Ahmed Shah Durani invaded Punjab in 1747 and in 1752 it was ceded to him by Ahmad Shah of Delhi. During this period, Suket became independent like other hill states, as there was turmoil in the area. During this period, Sikhs had also risen to power and Jassa Singh Ramgarhia invaded Kangra hills and established his sovereignty over several hill States. Probably Suket was also engulfed. He was succeeded by his son Ranjit Singh in 1762. He tried to recover Nachan from Mandi. He had great reliance in his wazir Narpat and his period was considered that of peace and prosperity in Suket. The law was strictly up held. Ranjit singh died in 1769 of accidental poisoning. Vikram Sen was installed the Raja of Suket in 1791. He helped Raja Sansar Chand of Kangra in attacking Mandi. 

The capital of the state was established at Baned now called Sundarnagar about three Kilometres south of Suket which was founded by Garur Sen. Suket or Naggar was called Purana Naggar but lost importance as new town namely Bhojpur sprang up half way between Baned and Suket. The Hill chiefs of Kangra jointly sent an invitation through the Raja of Bilaspur to Amar Singh Thapa, Gorkha Commander for invading Kangra. Sansar chand’s forces were defeated at Mehalmori and the fort of Kangra was captured by the Gorkhas. Raja Ishwari Sen of Mandi held by Sansar Chand in captivity was also released by the Gorkhas. Bikram Sen was made prisoner for about six months when he visited Bilaspur. He was compelled to surrender six forts seized from Mandi including Hatli and Balh. He managed his release in the night by leaving his Hukabardar in his place and reached his territory on foot. The Gorkhas were unable to retain their hold on Kangra and in 1809 with the help of Maharja Ranjit singh, Sansar Chand expelled them to the east of the Satluj but the famous Kangra fort was gulped by the Sikhs. Thus the supermacy over the hill States passed into the hands of the Sikhs and Suket also became their tributary. During this period, Pali and Dudar forts were constructed. During Bikram Sen’s period William Moor Croft visited Suket in 1820 on his travel to Kullu and Ladakh and probably was the first European to visit Suket. Bikram Sen was considered to be a strict administrator and he punished thieves, robbers and traffickers in women with utmost rigour.

Uggar Sen became the Raja of Suket in 1838. Mr. Vigne, the traveller visited Suket during his time in 1839 on his way back from the inner mountains. According to him Suket-Mandi valley was eight or ten miles in length and three or four miles in breadth richly cultivated and having numerous villages surrounded by various forests on hilltops. Sikh forces were sent around 1840 to the hill States with a view to seize the Raja of Suket, Mandi and Kullu before making an attack on the central Tibet. On reaching the Sikh army, Uggar sen gave in his submission and he was treated by them with consideration. In 1845, Uggar Sen refused to oblige the Sikhs when they asked for contingent against the Britishers who had invaded the territory. Uggar sen joined hand with Balbir Sen of Mandi and had a meeting with Mr Erskine, the Superintendent of Shimla Hill States at Bilaspur tendering their allegiance to the British Government and requested for an interview. On conclusion of the treaty of March 9,1846 between the British Government and Sikh darbar, the whole of Doab between the Satluj and Beas were ceded in perpetuity to the former. Mandi and Suket falling within the ceded territory came directly under the British control and were placed under the charge of Commissioner of Jalandhar in October, 1846 and ‘Sanad’ was granted to Uggar Sen defining his rights and obligations and confirming his possession. The right of adoption was also granted to the State on failure of direct heirs. Uggar Sen built the Shiva temple at Amla-Bimla and in 1876 died due to paralysis. He was well respected by his people for his liberal view, courtesy and courage. He was well versed in Sanskrit and was also fond of music and well acquainted with the science of medicines.

Rudar Sen, son of Uggar Sen succeeded him in 1876 who was installed the Raja of Suket by the Commissioner of Jalandhar. Rudar Sen imposed ‘Dhal’ on the land instead of tax on each house. His rules were considered very oppressive and land revenue was increased in addition to the various levies imposed on the Zamindars which created resentment among the people. He was deposed in 1879 and finally he settled at Hoshiarpur till his death in 1887. Rudar Sen was succeeded by Arimardan Sen who was just fifteen years of age at the time of installation. He died at Dharmsala soon after his succession and was succeded by his younger brother Dusht Nikandan Sen. Being minor the administration remained in the hands of the Superintendent until the Raja received full power. The land assessment was reduced in 1888 and two systems of land assessment were introduced and also carried out many improvements in the State. He opened a dispensary at Baned and a school at Bhojpur. A post office was opened in 1900 and a telegraph office in 1906. Economy measures were taken by abolishing the unnecessary posts and efforts were made for clearing out the debts and bringing out sound financial conditions. 

The work on various important public utility buildings was also undertaken. A bridge on Satluj at Juiri was also completed in 1889 and the roads were maintained in good condition. The sepoy lines and a new jail building were constructed in addition to office complex and granaries. He was succeeded by his son Bhim Sen in 1908. During his regime, a fully equipped hospital was constructed at Baned and rest houses at Baned, Seri and Dehar were also constructed. The road from Suket to Mandi was made motorable. The Raja rendered valuable services during the first World War and the title of Knighthood was conferred on him. Bhim Sen died in 1919 and was succeeded by his younger brother Lakshman Sen as the late Raja had no issue. Land revenue settlement were carried out during the time of Raja Lakshman Sen and the department of judiciary and other government departments were recognized. Schools for boys and girls were also opened. Club building, orphanage and Chief Court were also constructed during his time. The political control of the State was transferred to the Government of India from the government of Punjab on Ist November 1921. The State was merged with Himachal Pradesh on 15th April 1948 and a separate district of Mandi came into existence by merging Mandi and Suket States.

People 

The whole population with trifling exceptions in district is inhabited by Hindu. The original inhabitants of this area are Rajputs, Brahmins, Khatris and Kanets. Other section of the people consists of Kumhar, Lohars and Thawins, Nais, Mirasis, Chuhras, Kolis, Bohras, Rathis, Gujjars, Chanals and Dumne. Brief description of some of the important communities is given

hereunder.

Dress

The clothing for men consist of shirt and pajama. The turban has now replaced by a type of Gandhian cap and Kulvi Caps. More often people now go bare headed. The women folks wear long shirt and pajama or salwar kamiz. The head is covered with the coloured dupatta or chunni. Wearing of bushirt, T-shirts, sweaters and trousers by the men and sari and blouse by women has become popular among the economically well off class. The people use woollen clothes prepared from homespun wool which is locally woven during winter. The villagers are attired in their best when they attend any fair or festival. The coloured piece of cloth called Dhatu for covering the head is worn by the women in Karsog tahsil. Bali, Kanganu, Chak and Pazeb are the ornaments worn by the women of all sections. While the women of economically better families generally wear gold rings in their nose, silver or gold rings in their ears, bangles of brass or glass or gold in their wrists and silver necklace around the neck. They put surma or antimony in the eyes and bindi in the forehead at marriages and festivals. Married women used coloured dupattas white widows generally use while dupatta. The Punjabi kamiz and salwar are now more commonly used and cheap rayons or nylone are used for dupatta.

Religion

A majority of the population of the district possesses Hinduism. The Muslims, Sikhs and Buddhists are in minority. The religion of the district falls naturally into three groups. The religion of the lower hills appears to represent a fusion between the cults of the Himalayas proper and the beliefs of the later Rajput invaders. Over this admixture, a veneer of orthodox Hinduism has been super imposed. All the ceremonies, rites and rituals are performed according to religion. The religious assignments in several respects are most interesting, both because of their variety and throw the light on the influence of the Brahmins on these rites and rituals. The endowment of the village gods presents the features commonly found in the hills. The diety is the malguzar as well as the assignee and his tenants either pay rent into his treasury or cultivate the land on condition of service. The majority of gods are landholders and several of them hold assignments of considerable value granted either in recognition of their importance or as a reward for a supposed miracle. The grants in favour of orthodox temples are in the hands of Pujaris. The management of the other important temples is in the charge of trustees and institutional organization, which administers the endowments of religion and charity. There is no doubt that the majority of the village gods in the district as throughout the western Himalayas belong to serpent groups and Narain is a tittle for Snake God. The temple image almost invariably consist of a ‘pind’ or ‘linga’ of stone and this probably represents the primitive idol. Now a days, the most important outward and visible symbol of the god is his rath, a term which may be translated as ark, palanquin or litter.

Language

A majority of the people in the district speak the local Mandiali dialect. According to the classification of languages made by the Linguistic Survey of India, the dialects under the Mandiali group have been classified as one of the several dialects under Western Pahari. Western Pahari has been classified as sub-group under Pahari group, inner sub-branch of Indo-Aryan branch and Aryan sub-family under the broader the Indo-European family of languages. Under the sub-group, Western Pahari is included a number of dialects spoken in the hilly area stretched from Bhadarwah and Chamba on the North-West to Sirmaur on the South-East. (Census of India-1961. Vol 1 India, Part II C (ii) Language Tables p. CL xx and Una) . Besides Pahari, Hindi is also in common use in the district. In the lower portions of the district such as in Mandi, Balh, Sundarnagar, Jogindarnagar and Sarkaghat people speak proper Mandiali while in the hilly areas like Seraj, Karsog, Sanor, Badar, Uttersal and Chuhar, the variation of Mandiali spoken by the hill people is known as Mandiali Pahari. Mandyali used to be written formerly in Tankri or Tang Kray script, but presently devnagri script is commonly being used.

The district lying between Shimla and Kangra proper with Kullu for their Eastern boundary, they form part of the central linguistic wedge between Chamba and Shimla. It is noticeable that North of Kangra and South Suket certain linguistic peculiarities are found which are not observed in the central area. The main Mandiali dialect is rather widely spread. It is found with very little change over all the Western and Northern portions of the district. The centre of North Mandiali may be taken to be Jhatingri half way between Sultanpur and Palampur. In the South-East portion of the district, called Mandi Seraj, the dialect spoken is still Mandiali but it shows resemblances to inner Seraj, the dialect of the Northern half of the Seraj tahsil of Kullu. Although the dialect shows many traces of the influence of Punjabi, it keeps clear of that influence in the plural of nouns, which is in the obligue generally the same as the singular except in the vocative case.

KANGRA, Himachal Pradesh

Main Attraction: Kangra Fort

The Kangra Fort is located atop a hill at the confluence of Banganga and Patal Ganga river (also known as the Majhi), in the south western outskirts of the old Kangra town. The fort was built by the founder of Katoch Dynasty, Bhuma Chand. The fort is also known by other names, Nagarkot and Kot Kangra.The history of the fort reveals that it attracted numerous eyes that wished to control the region. In those days it was said that the person who holds the Kangra fort will be the one who ruled over Kangra. Accordingly, the king of Kashmir, Shreshta became the first one to conquer the fort in 470 AD. In 1009 AD, Mohammad of Gazni set his eyes on the fort and ransacked it. He took away with him 7 lakh gold coins, 28 tonnes utensils made of gold and silver and 8 tonnes of diamond and pearls. The next two attacks on the fort were made by Muhammad Tughlaq (in 1337) and Feroze Shah ( in 1357). A quick period of peace was soon followed by another attack. This one came from Khan Jahan, a commander of Sher Shah Suri in the year 1540. Less than a century later, Jahangir himself occupied the fort in 1620. The year of 1781 saw the fort passing into the hands of Jassa Singh Kanhaya while five years later Maharaja Sansar Chand became its owner. Maharaja Ranjit Singh captured it in 1809 and finally in 1846, the Kangra fort fell into the hands of the British power.

A devastating earthquake in 1905 caused much damage to the fort. As of today, the fort is the property of the Archaeological Survey of India. The fort spreads over a long stretch of land and has high ramparts and walls protecting it. They cover a circuit of around 4 kms. The ancient fort has numerous Darwazas built by various conquerors. Access to the fort is gained from the Ranjit Singh Darwaza which leads to the Jahangiri Darwaza through the Ahni and Amiri Darwazas. Other Darwazas are the Andheri Darwaza and the Darshani Darwaza. At the other end of the Darshani Darwaza there stands two temples namely the Lakshmi Narayan Temple and the Sitlamata Temple. Standing to the north of these two temples is the Ambika Devi Temple which is still used for the purpose of worshipping. To the south of the Ambika Devi Temple, stand two small Jain temples which are in a bad shape and one of it has a seated image of Lord Adinath.The other Jain Temple, unfortunately has only a pedestal. A modern Jain Temple is also there which serves the accommodation purpose of the pilgrims to Kangra.

Brief History

Kangra district derives its name from Kangra town which was called Nagarkot in the ancient times. Kangra proper originally was a part of the ancient Trigartha or Trigarta (Jalandhar) which comprised of the area lying between the rivers “Shatadroo” (probably Satluj) and Ravi. A tract of land to the east of the Satluj which probably is the area of Sirhind in Punjab also formed a part of Trigartha or Trigarta. Trigartha was comprised of two provinces, viz one in the plains with headquarters at Jalandhar and the other in the hills with headquarters at Nagarkot (present Kangra).

In the time of Harsha, the famous Chinese pilgrim Hiuen Tsiang visited Jalandhar sometimes in March 635 A.D. and in his writings he has referred to the principality of Jalandhar situated towards the north-east of China-Po-ti (China Bhakti) and towards the south-east of Kiu-lo-to (Kullu). From the history of Kashmir given in the Rajtirangini, Raja Shankar Verma (883 to 903) of Kashmir held suzerainty over Prithi Chand of Trigartha.

In ancient times, a number of petty chiefs ruled in the hills within their respective domains owning allegiance to the powerful Raja at the centre. However, Katoch princes ruled over Kangra from the earliest times. At the time of the invasion of the Punjab by Alexandar in 326 B.C., a Katoch prince ruled Tirgartha or Trigarta.

In the beginning of the 11th century, Mahmood of Ghazni finished the Turki Shahi family and the Hindu Shahi dynasty of Kabul in Afghanistan and after defeating a large Hindu army at Ohind and later at Peshawar, advanced into the plains of the Punjab. After defeating the Hindu king at Lahore, he invaded Nagarkot. After defeating the Rajput Raja at Kangra, who had sent most of his men to the fight the Muslims elsewhere. Mahmood satisfied his lust for wealth by carrying away on camel backs, enormous wealth of gold and silver from the fort and temple of Kangra. After passing of this storm, the Katoch kings continued their rule over the Trigartha area undisturbed. Even after the conquest of Lahore by the Turks, the Katoch family held some territory of Jalandhar in the plains. However, one Ibrahim of Ghazni conquered this territory from the Katoch king Jagdeo Chander in A.D.1070.

In 1337, Mohd. Tuglak, an Afghan king of Delhi, captured the fort of Kangra in the reign of Raja Prithi Chand. In 1351, however, Raja Purab Chand recovered the fort from the Muslims. One of the successor, namely Raja Rup Chand, became ambitious and led an expedition into the plains of the Punjab, plundering the country right upto the outskirts of Delhi. This was an act of affrontary which could not be condoned by the Sultan of Delhi. So, Feroz Shah Tuglak invaded Kangra in 1366 to punish the Raja. The fort was surrendered after a long siege, and the Raja submitted completely to the Sultan. After the death of Rup Chand, his son Singara Chand succeeded to the throne and ruled over Kangra at the time of the invasion of Timur.

Sher Shah Suri, the Afgan king, who turned out Humayun from India, also captured Kangra in 1540. By 1555, the Muslim influence again declined. Akbar, however, subjugated all the hill Rajas. Occasionally the hill Rajas rebelled against the imperial authorities, but after a few skirmishes with the Moghul Generals, they submitted and renewed their pledges of loyalty. Jahangir also became interested in the kingdom of Kangra of Trigartha or Trigarta. He wanted to annexe the territory of this state and to capture the fort, because a lot of prestige was attached to the fort of Kangra. It was said that who-so-ever, held the fort automatically becomes the ruler of hill states. The invasion took place in 1615 under the command of Sheikh Farid, Murtaza Khan and Raja Suraj Mal of Nurpur who was in the confidence of Jahangir.

The fort could not be captured and after one year the siege had to be given up. Next year, another expedition was sent by Jahangir under Shah Quli Khan, Mohammad Taqi and Suraj Mal, but Suraj Mal proved unfaithful. The emperor had to send another strong force under Sunder Das against Suraj Mal and also against the Raja of Kangra. After one year and two month’s siege, Sunder Das captured the fort in 1620. The Katoch ruler lost the fort at least for 160 years. The entire state was annexed to the Moghul Kingdom and a strong garrison was left incharge of the fort. In 1622, Jahangir and Begum Nur Jahan came to Kangra via Siba and returned to Delhi via Nurpur and Pathankot. They were fascinated by the beauty of the Kangra valley.

In 1752, Punjab was transferred to Ahmed Shah Durani by the weak Moghul rulers of Delhi. The Afgans could not successfully control these far flung areas from Kabul. So, local Governors were appointed to administer the territory on behalf of the Afgan ruler. In 1758, Raja Ghamand Chand was appointed Nazim or the Governor of Jalandhar Doab under the Afgans. Ghamand Chand was a brave man and a strong ruler who restored the prestige and glory of Kangra. As he was unable to capture the Kangra fort, he built another fort at Tira Sujanpur on the left bank of the Beas almost opposite Alampur on a hill overlooking the town. This great ruler died in 1774 and was succeeded by his son Tegh Chand who died after one year in 1775.

Kangra then saw the rise of another great ruler Sansar Chand (II). Though the Punjab had been given to the Duranis, the old Moghul officers had proclaimed their independence in some outlying parts of the country. Nawab Saif Ali Khan at Kangra was one such officer. Raja Sansar Chand had an ambition to recapture the fort and in 1781, he called to his aid Sardar Jai Singh of Kanhaya Misal. The fort was surrendered by the Moghul Officer in 1783 but it fell into the hands of the Sikhs. Sansar Chand got the fort after some years by exchanging it with some territory, which he had won in the plains of the Punjab. After getting the fort, Sansar Chand revived the tradition and laid a claim to supremacy over all the principalities and hill states of the Jalandhar Circle. He made the hill chiefs tributary to himself. In his capital at Tira Sujanpur, he erected a great Darbar Hall. For full twenty years he reigned supreme over all the hill states of Kangra, Mandi, Kullu and Chamba. Sansar Chand was well known for his generosity, kindness, bravery, justice and good administration, patronage of art and shrewd judgement of men and matters.

Sansar Chand was also a great builder. He had beautified many places in the territory ruled over by him. He planted numerous gardens and the one at Alampur is said to have been as beautiful as the Shalimar Gardens at Lahore. However, reckless bravery and unlimited ambition of this great Raja ultimately ruined him. His dream was to regain the far reaching dominions of his ancestors and even to establish the Katoch rule in the entire Punjab. In 1803- 1804, he invaded the plains of the Punjab twice but was defeated by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. In 1805 he annexed a part of Bilaspur state, thus coming in conflict with the Gurkhas, who in the latter half of the 18th century moved south to establish their dominion over the entire hilly part of India from Nepal to Kashmir and had actually come up to the river Satluj. Gurkhas became angry at the annexation of a part of Bilaspur state, which was under their suzerainty. They invaded Kangra, but were defeated. The hill Rajas of Kangra, however, were feeling sore against Sansar Chand. They all approached Raja Amar Singh Thapa of Gurkhas through the Raja of Bilaspur to invade Kangra again. In 1806, with the help of the hill chiefs, the Gurkhas defeated Raja Sansar Chand who had to take refuge inside the fort. The country was laid waste and was plundered by the enemies. During the siege of the fort, a state of anarchy prevailed throughout the Kangra valley. The siege lasted for four years. After that Sansar Chand managed to get out of the fort and fled to Tira Sujanpur.

In 1809, Maharaja Ranjit Singh visited Jawalamukhi temple where Sansar Chand met him and entered into a treaty with him. It was agreed that the Maharaja should help Sansar Chand in expelling Gurkhas from the state and that in return the Maharaja would get the Kangra fort along with nearby 66 villages. Gurkhas were defeated by the combined forces of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and Sansar Chand. The fort of Kangra with 66 villages surrounding it, was made over to Ranjit Singh. Dessa Singh Majithia was appointed the Nazim or Governor of the fort and Kangra hills and from that day all the states of the Jalandhar Circle became tributary to the Sikhs. Sansar Chand returned to Tira Sujanpur where he died in 1823.

Sansar Chand’s son, Anirudh Chand succeeded his father in 1823 but he was not destined to rule for a long time. Raja Dhian Singh, the Dogra chief of Jammu, the most powerful man in the Sikh kingdom after Maharaja Ranjit Singh, desired to marry one of the two sisters of Anirudh Chand. For the rulers of the Katoch family, this demand in itself was an insult. Anirudh Chand was adamant not to permit that alliance. The Maharaja got angry and led an expedition against him. Anirudh Chand had to flee and the Sikhs occupied the entire state of Kangra.

After the First Battle of Sikhs in March, 1846, the territory of the Punjab lying between the Satluj and Ravi rivers, including the hill states of Kangra proper and Kullu were ceded to the British Government. The entire area, comprising Kangra proper, Kullu and Seraj and the tracts of Lahul & Spiti, was now constituted into the Kangra district, with its headquarters at Kangra. After a few years, the headquarters of the district was transferred to Dharmsala because that place was considered cooler and healthier for the British officers and also the slopes of the Dhaula Dhar provided ample room to accommodate a newly raised local contigent for the army.

The present Kangra district came into existent on the 1st September, 1972 consequent upon the reorganization of districts by the Government of Himachal Pradesh. It was the largest district of the composite Punjab in terms of area till it was transferred to Himahcal Pradesh on the 1st November, 1966 and had six tehsils namely Nurpur, Kangra, Palampur, Dera Gopipur and Hamirpur. Kullu was also a tehsil of Kangra district upto 1962 and Lahul & Spiti which also formed a part of Kangra was created as a separate district in 1960. On the reorganization of composite Punjab on the 1st November, 1966 the areas constituting Kangra district were transferred to Himachal Pradesh alongwith the districts of Shimla, Kullu and Lahul & Spiti and tehsils of Una and Nalagarh and areas of Dalhousie, Dalhousie CB and Bakloh CB of Gurdaspur.